Dual alternator conversion??

[roosterdiesel]

Yes I am trying to figure out the dual setup! I've been told by some vendors and members that the second one is kicked on by the PCM when the amp draw exceeds a certain spec. My driver's side batt got cooked by it and my new Optima may have been too, haven't had it tested. It was sizzling(venting) when I first installed them. Now it doesn't. According to AE sometimes I'm putting out 14.8V, anything over 14.5 is cooking the system. I still haven't contacted Jay at AutoEnginuity to figure out how to diagnose what is causing the second one to kick on.

I don't know what all would be needed to do the change. I work with a farmer that has the setup Powerboatr posted on his CTD. 24'n irrigation engines at start up is the way to go!

 

[powerboatr]

Rooster
yes your right the pcm has a BIG hand in the second alt control. I think sometime back at the other place it was figured to be to costly to go the new pcm and wiring route and stick with a big single.
however some controllers used in the marine world will work but they are $$$ as well
maybe i will sneak over there and search some....
under an assumed name

 

[Bags]

I installed a dual alternator in my truck. All it takes is ordering the brackets, bolts, belt, wiring harness, and getting a alternator from a junk yard. The wires go from the alternator terminal directly to the battery. The harness that plugs into the alternator taps directly into the wires on the upper alternator. The benefits outweigh a single high amp tremendously b/c of the heat problem with that style alternator. Its been working for me for 3 months now. The alternator is actually the same one from the top position, or at least it works.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Welcome to SDD!

No PCM change? Wow. Ever put a scanner on it when running with high Amp draws? Sounds like your system could take some! How much did you spend on the parts?

Sounds like a sweet truck! Daily driven?

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Alternative to dual alternators

I've been keeping this filed away for possible future reference:Quick Start Automotive Electric and I thought I would pass it along for a possible alternative to the hassles of trying to graft on a 2nd alternator.

It looks like another way of meeting increased power requirements with out the headaches of all the extra parts that would have to be obtained to add a 2nd alternator.-popcorn

 

[Bags]

Yes...Its my daily driver to and from the office and out to different job sites. Sometimes wish it was 6.0L, but it has never left me hanging.

It cost me $396.20 for everything. I just pulled out the receipt from the ford dealer for the parts and then the alternator from the junk yard and that was the total. The junk yard alternators have worked well for me and are a fraction the cost and most of the time they will give you another one if its bad. Beats paying $188.98 at the dealer for one.

The problem with the "high amp" alternators, is that the frame is still the same size. It was only designed to disipate so much heat. Sure, you can rework them and make them pump out the amperes, but for only short periods of time before they overheat. Trust me, with the stereos i've had, I have been through some alternators.

The voltage regulator within the alternators are what do the switching on of the alternators. If your system needs more power, they allow more to be made. If it is charged well, then the regulator slows down the charge to a minimum.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

The problem with the "high amp" alternators, is that the frame is still the same size.

FWIW: They show a monster alternator where the frame looks about 1/3 again larger than the big frame alternator that comes on the truck standard, but still has the same mounting bolt pattern. It is a MITSUBISHI Dual Rectifier unit.

You can see the picture of the BIG ASSED ALTERNATOR here. Our standard single alternators are supposedly like the one in the middle of the three shown.

 

[DaveBen]

I have emailed them and requested a price on that beast. I will let you all know how much this big dog is when I find out.

Dave

 

[Tbar]

FWIW..............

This little dead end wire harness plug is located behind the passenger side battery below the starter relay. It is part of the energizing circiut for the main alternator and IMHO might be plug in for the dual alternator. In this picture I have cut the tape that holds it to a wire bundle in order to repair it.

Wire harness plug


Tbar

 

[Bags]

I'm sure that large alternator will probably work fine and charge well. I have just had some bad experiences with the "high amp" alternators. Ask them if they can prove to you how long it will "charge" at say 80 amperes or how long they last in our situations. I like the feeling having 2 alternators and not have to worry about one going out when at a party or away from home. The redundant theory like airplanes have. Having two, in case one fails you have a backup. There may be a plug as well already wired into the truck, but I copied what the setup on a 99 ambulance looked like. Ford put two alternators instead of one for some reason.

The 215 amp GM one wire alternator that I had on my Jeep would last about 6 months of service. I would call the place up I purchased it from and tell them my situation and they would tell me they do not warrantee in my situation. That I need more batteries to supply my winch and lights on my rollbar, not a better alternator. I went through 3 of these with the latter two just being rewound by a company in Orlando to produce more amperes. I then put two standard Napa GM one wire alternators on the Jeep and it is still running today, about 3 years later. FYI, Just to back up my theory.