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Patrick Feeley

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Just make sure the fuel additive does not contain alcohol and you should be good (I used Stanadyne Performance formula in my former 94). Cheers!
 

BJS

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yes diesel is lighter than water and so the water will be on the bottom. Keep in mind that you are on the dirty side of the filter so if you have sediments that are not adhered to the filter when you changed it they will settle to the bottom of the filter housing forming a gunk layer that will hold the remaining water and allow the rotting to continue.

I tend to do some shorter flushes of the filter housing between filter changes and without cracking open the filter housing I don't get any flow without the engine running due to the tight seal on the fuel system.
 

DOC-MX

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The bottom of my canister also was rotted out, because that gunk, I fixed with JB weld inside and outside, and took out the heather element for ever, you dont needed it!, and in that way its very easy to clean the bottom of the bowl every filter change. :sweet
 

Patrick Feeley

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You can unplug the heater on the inside and let the wire hang or you can remove the plastic standpipe (7/8" crows-foot wrench, its LEFTHAND threaded) and take the heater element and plate out. Cheers!
 

DOC-MX

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You can unplug the heater on the inside and let the wire hang or you can remove the plastic standpipe (7/8" crows-foot wrench, its LEFTHAND threaded) and take the heater element and plate out. Cheers!

Agree with that, and I did what Patrick mention in tha last part. ;tu
 

DOC-MX

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put the stand pipe back? right? why do they put the heater in there?

Yes the stand pipe has to be back again, its necessary for the filter.
Why?, I really dont know, :dunno obviously to heat the fuel there, but its not useful in the real practice, maybe only if you live in the artic. :eek:
 

iracemine

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it prevents the gunk on the filter from gelling in the cold, and starving the engine from fuel. I happens alot up here in IL.
 

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