Question Exhaust Smell in Cab

JRJ04

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What does it mean? Generally, when I'm moving its ok. But when I'm running the heater, its getting to be pretty smelly. Smells like im not getting a complete burn on my fuel (which is a whole different issue).

Where could the smell come from? Could I just need to seal up the condensor box up tighter?
 

Tail_Gunner

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What does it mean? Generally, when I'm moving its ok. But when I'm running the heater, its getting to be pretty smelly. Smells like im not getting a complete burn on my fuel (which is a whole different issue).

Where could the smell come from? Could I just need to seal up the condensor box up tighter?

First place I'd look at is the donut gaskets on the up-pipes going into the "Y" collector aka baby's butt on the back side of the turbo. They seem to like leaking after a while. Look for signs of exhaust soot on the up-pipes or surrounding areas.
 

JRJ04

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yea that looks pretty difficult to get to.

Here's whats weird though...it only happens in the winter when its cold out AND only when im running the heater. If I run the A/C...no issues.

Im guessing the whole turbo has to come off to replace these...how much do the gaskets cost?
 

Tail_Gunner

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The gaskets are not that much, if you get the right ones.

Bean's told me about some that are available from Car Quest for pretty cheap. They are the right diameter, but a bit wider for a better seal than the stock ones for a lot less.

I'll have to do a search and see if I can come up with that number.
 

Tail_Gunner

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p.s. By far the best access for the job is with the tranny removed. But that isn't very practical for this job.

I had to pull the turbo to get the baby's butt out. The bolts going into it were siezed and I had to perform a boltadectomy.

Eventually you'll have to have the turbo installed to mount the baby's butt to. It has to be positioned correctly before you tighten the clamps for the up-pipes.

If your bolts ain't siezed into the baby's butt, I don't see any reason to remove it and the turbo. I did everything else from below. It isn't easy or fun, but do-able.
 

Tail_Gunner

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The gaskets are not that much, if you get the right ones.

Bean's told me about some that are available from Car Quest for pretty cheap. They are the right diameter, but a bit wider for a better seal than the stock ones for a lot less.

I'll have to do a search and see if I can come up with that number.

Get some F17250 donuts from Car Quest, Bean recommends them. They're wider than OEM and squish better than the sintered metal type.

Also use plenty of anti-sieze on all surfaces where any binding would hinder donut squish when tightening the bolts down.

TIP #1:
Use a tailpipe expander to expand the end of the uppipes where the donuts contact the uppipe. Expand it as much as you can where the uppipe will still go into the donuts and "Y" manifold/baby's butt. The less you have to crush the donut, the easier it'll be to get a good seal.

TIP #2:
Removing the downpipe makes getting to the right side uppipe easier. It's still a PITA, but easier.

:sweet:sweet
 

JLDickmon

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What does it mean? Generally, when I'm moving its ok. But when I'm running the heater, its getting to be pretty smelly. Smells like im not getting a complete burn on my fuel (which is a whole different issue).

Where could the smell come from? Could I just need to seal up the condensor box up tighter?

Jourdan..
exhaust or fuel smell?
 

JRJ04

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Jourdan..
exhaust or fuel smell?

def exhaust. I've had the fuel smell when my drain valve was leaking. This is undoubtedly exhaust. But only when the heater is on. That makes me think my box isnt sealed well.

What do you think?
 

JLDickmon

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I think I'd be disinfecting the heater core.. air flows through the engine compt either way..
 

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