Ford says turbo bad b/c of Oilguard bypass

[powerboatr]

for a rough idea about flow
it takes me 1 minute at idle to get a sample of 3-4 oz.

this is at the oil filler return cap.

i would also like mentioned, asked to see the old one and any replacement parts, especially bearings. if they are allowed to tear em down in the shop.... ask about how they balance the turbine assembly?
take copious pictures as well
may want to run a few oil samples through a reputable company to get a good baseline incase of another failure, and did they remove the oil supply tube that feeds the turbo bearing and check it for clog or flow and or pressure? how about the line itself?

 

[TexasExcursion]

How many miles since the last turbo? What was happening for the failure, lack of boost, horrendous noise? I can't see how the heck you can trash 4 turbos like that.

Let me ask you this... are they completely replacing the turbo, or doing a rebuild on it? Reason I ask is if the rotor(s) are out of balance, that will eat bearings like no other. If they are being cheap and throwing bearings at it, it will never fix the root cause. I don't know if they can rebuild them or not.

I only mention that as we had a 6.9 that ate a quart every 500 miles, from about 5000 miles all the way to 125k when it went boom. The deal supposedly replaced the engine twice, and amazingly the oil consumption was always the same, until it went out of warranty then they said sorry about your luck. That dealership to this day still can't fix a lawnmower. My old man was a real Pud about that deal.

Can you ask to see the old turbo? If they can't produce the dead one, I'd be a little interested as to what they did. Also, mark the housing on the current one, something unobtrusive, like a small "X" scribed in the outlet housing. Something so that when the next one comes apart (sorry for the bad omen) you can go back to them when they replace it again and say WTF over?

My last turbo was replaced at 57k, so that's, um.....about 23k on the current one. They are completely replacing the turbo, not replacing bearings or rebuilding it. They show me the bad one each time they replace it. Now, I'm assuming they're putting reman'd turbo's in and not a brand spankin' new one.

Technically the 4th turbo is going in yesterday/today, but the first time they replaced it, the replacement was bad, so they had to order a second one. Never got it out of the shop between the 1st and 2nd replacements. So you could say this is only the 2nd time the turbo has gone bad while in use. Still, one time is too many. Next time I have a problem I'll be at a different dealer; hopefully they're more experienced with diesels.

 

[powerboatr]

Bruce
I hate to add anymore.
but, your model and year did have some oil pressure issues.
do you kno wif they put in a direct reading oil pressure gauge to check for correct PSI at idle and under load?
also the oil filter drain valve is prone to sticking open, which wil allow oil psi to build but it could be low and full of unfiltered oil running through the engine.
Rob

 

[bushpilot]

sure sounds like a restriction in oil flow <at least to the turbo>...have
they thought of that ? have they done anything to actually TROUBLESHOOT
the thing <or do they just keep replacing parts> !

I think id be contacting your by-pass oil filter mfg too...let them get involved...
surely they'd have issue w/ this too...since word travels so quickly between
dealerships and owners <via the internet>

 

[JimmyDee]

I have a Frantz bypass filter installed and it came with a warning to use a restrictor fitting in the feed line. The warning basically stated to use it to prevent a reduced flow of oil through the engine oil system. Keep in mind that this filtering system diverts oil from the main oil system to the by-pass to super filter it.
It might be possible that such a restrictor was not installed???? Not sure how their setup works but I would definitely check it out before running it again.
Jim

 

[powerboatr]

oil guards restrictor is pretty hard to mess up
its a drilled passage in the main filter body assembly
but it could have been NOT drilled?

as per their info it has a .040" orifice and will pass bewteen .75 and 1.5 QT/min
for the EPS 20 system
so i seriously doubt it is starving the turbo of oil.
I think teh dealer is grabbing at straws, see something NEW, instantly blame it
we would have tons of other issues if the oil guard was robbing oil, piston jets, cam bearings and hpop resivior

 

[TexasExcursion]

oil guards restrictor is pretty hard to mess up
its a drilled passage in the main filter body assembly
but it could have been NOT drilled?

I checked the restricter--as per the instructions--before install and it was working properly (well, the hole was there, not that it was doing anything at the time...)

I hate to add anymore.
but, your model and year did have some oil pressure issues.
do you know if they put in a direct reading oil pressure gauge to check for correct PSI at idle and under load?
also the oil filter drain valve is prone to sticking open, which wil allow oil psi to build but it could be low and full of unfiltered oil running through the engine.
Rob

I asked about the oil filter drain valve as well as the oil supply and return lines from the turbo. All were checked and all were working properly. I would like to check the oil filter drain valve, but need to know how to check it and what to look for.

Perhaps an oil pressure guage would be in order for me. Would this hook into the same place as a direct reading oil pressure guage?

Got the truck a few minutes ago. It drives fine now, I'm just concerned with the next 300k that I'd like to put on it. What's the best way to identify turbo problems before they're....well.....a problem?

 

[powerboatr]

I checked the restricter--as per the instructions--before install and it was working properly (well, the hole was there, not that it was doing anything at the time...)



I asked about the oil filter drain valve as well as the oil supply and return lines from the turbo. All were checked and all were working properly. I would like to check the oil filter drain valve, but need to know how to check it and what to look for.

Smooth operation closing and opening the big spring should glide not bind, its easy to cock under a new filter, real smart huh.

Perhaps an oil pressure guage would be in order for me. Would this hook into the same place as a direct reading oil pressure guage?

YES
Got the truck a few minutes ago. It drives fine now, I'm just concerned with the next 300k that I'd like to put on it. What's the best way to identify turbo problems before they're....well.....a problem?

hope it all stays GOOD, do an oil sample now as well.

 

[hheynow]

As always, help is appreciated.

Read THIS old article. Like I said, it's their job to blame aftermarket mods for the 6.0's problems.

 

[TexasExcursion]

Time to trade?

Read THIS old article. Like I said, it's their job to blame aftermarket mods for the 6.0's problems.

Interesting.

We're thinking of selling the truck and trading on an 05 X. Any thoughts?

I had two injectors replaced within the first 15k, and from there replaced serpentine belt (52k), replaced turbo and exhaust downpipe (57k), replaced EBP sensor (62k), replaced PCM (63k), replaced EGR (66k), and replaced EGR and turbo (79k). Nothing else on the motor (the Amsoil bypass fiasco wasn't the trucks fault...).

This sounds like quite a bit, but I've been reading about lots of trucks puking coolant, leaking head gaskets, etc etc. So far I've been okay there, and the Blackstone reports all look great.

None of us have a crystal ball, but do these problems look like something that's gonna be big problems as soon as I click 100k (in the next year)? In a perfect world I'd trade it in tomorrow, but in reality it's gonna cost me a good chunk of change to do that, plus the time and effort to pull some of the mods off one X and put it on the other.

What d'ya think?