Question Hard to start & rough ideling when cold.

[jpringle83]

The o-ring on my cam sensor was leaking oil and causing a rough hard start and crappy idle changed the o-ring and it's been good since. The o-ring is like $8 at the stealership.

 

[rustinh1]

I just ordered the o-rings for my truck. My buddy's dad is a KW mechanic and he said this is the most common issue that causes rough cold starts. He said it could also be the FICM or the Injectors, but to start with the o-rings as they are the most "cost effective" option....

 

[roger2003]

Those codes relate to the EGR and not the FICM. I had a couple of codes that referenced #1,3,5,7 and #2,4,6,8 being circuits low. That was the clue for the FICM. Don't know Barrett.

Dave

I had that same problem, shop replaced the FICM, No better, problem was my injectors were crapping out on me. I lost #4 plus one on that side of the engine. I took it in tested injector, changed out three BAD injectors, have to wait on the rest of them, which is showing low voltage, until funds are more plentiful. The process of discovery SUCKED!!!!!!!!

 

[bismic1]

Reflash makes a BIG difference- How cold is it out? - Are you plugging it in?

I agree - the reflash of the processors really does help!!

Also, you can check your FICM voltage - if it is under 47 V, there are many posts on various forums on how to fix it yourself (re-flowing the solder in several key areas).

 

[architect-builder]

Ok, today I thought progress.

My Check Engine Light finally came on. I thought, finally, a code has been thrown, I will finally figure out what the heck is going on.

I bought a engine diag. tool, hooked it up, got P 2138 and 2140 codes.

Thought, finally, it's going to tell me what has been going on...


P2139 is:

Throttle / Postition sensore / SW D/E Volt Correlation

P2140 is:

Throttle / Postition sensore / SW E/F Volt Correlation


WTF is that. This is just Bizarre.

Getting nothing that is saying "Yo Stupid, Your F'n ??????? is the problem.



Barrett

 

[JLDickmon]

I'm just chiming in here, but that makes me think that you have resistance problems either in the potentiometer on the pedal itself, or poor connections at the pedal.

What it's telling you, is that it's looking for specific voltages & comparing them across the D & E terminals and the E & F terminals and it's not seeing the results it THINKS it should be seeing...

 

[bismic1]

I have changed the oil and used Synthetic Rotella. I also like to mention that I flushed the engine before changing the oil. It is still hard to start (engine has to turn over for 3-4 seconds) but after it starts, it runs much smooter. I have also added Slick-50 to the oil. I believe that has helped as well. The temprature has been between 20-50 F. I still feel the the engine takes too long to crank. I am used to one little cranck and the engine coming on. I will take it to the shop for re-flashing one of these days. By the way, my gas milage is a little less that 14 in the city. Is that right for this size truck?

Personally I would not run an oil w/ Slick 50 in it. The 6.0L depends on specific oil and oil properties. Too much risk for oil additives to cause problems. Glad things are better for you.