NEED HELP! 7.3L Diesel wont start!

[dirttysouth]

I've got a 2002 F250 7.3L that I bought about three weeks ago. I haven't been working much with the cold weather so I have been letting my wife drive it. She drove it last night and parked it(no problems), its been getting down in the low 30's at night so I told here to plug the block warmer in and she did. She went out to start it to warm up this morning, she said it started fine, and went back in the house while it warmed up for a minute, when she went back out it had died and wouldn't start. She thought it had ran out of fuel(the light was on, but wasn't real low), so she took the kids to school, and didn't tell me about it til two hours later.....so I have been messing with it for the last hour getting no where. I put a gallon of fuel in it just to make sure, still nothing, checked all the fuses, all were good, tried using ether, still nothing....not even attempting to hit. Check engine light isn't on. Truck has 154,*** miles, just had the Injectors, ICP, Injector wiring, and fuel sending unit replaced at the end of September.....Any ideas?

 

[Tail_Gunner]

I've got a 2002 F250 7.3L that I bought about three weeks ago. I haven't been working much with the cold weather so I have been letting my wife drive it. She drove it last night and parked it(no problems), its been getting down in the low 30's at night so I told here to plug the block warmer in and she did. She went out to start it to warm up this morning, she said it started fine, and went back in the house while it warmed up for a minute, when she went back out it had died and wouldn't start. She thought it had ran out of fuel(the light was on, but wasn't real low), so she took the kids to school, and didn't tell me about it til two hours later.....so I have been messing with it for the last hour getting no where. I put a gallon of fuel in it just to make sure, still nothing, checked all the fuses, all were good, tried using ether, still nothing....not even attempting to hit. Check engine light isn't on. Truck has 154,*** miles, just had the Injectors, ICP, Injector wiring, and fuel sending unit replaced at the end of September.....Any ideas?

I'd put more than just one gallon in it. Check & make sure you're getting fuel. Open the fuel bowl drain and turn the key on to. If the fuel pump hasn't lost its prime and is sending fuel to the filter bowl, it'll shoot out the drain line when you turn the key on. If you don't get any fuel, you're either low on fuel or the fuel pump lost its prime.

 

[dirttysouth]

I'd put more than just one gallon in it. Check & make sure you're getting fuel. Open the fuel bowl drain and turn the key on to. If the fuel pump hasn't lost its prime and is sending fuel to the filter bowl, it'll shoot out the drain line when you turn the key on. If you don't get any fuel, you're either low on fuel or the fuel pump lost its prime.

Is there a drain plug for the fuel filter on the frame rail? I know on my 6.0L there is plug on the side of the filter housing that is on the frame rail...does the 7.3L have a drain or do I have to loosen the fuel filter/lines? I only put 1 gallon in it cuz I knew it wasn't low enough for that to be the problem

 

[BIG JOE]

Is there a drain plug for the fuel filter on the frame rail? I know on my 6.0L there is plug on the side of the filter housing that is on the frame rail...does the 7.3L have a drain or do I have to loosen the fuel filter/lines? I only put 1 gallon in it cuz I knew it wasn't low enough for that to be the problem

On the 7.3 the drain is on the back of the filter canister. Look behind it, yul see a Yellow valve.

The 1 gallon added ? Don't be fooled by the fuel gauge. I'd put more money on the Low Fuel light... 1 gallon might not do it. I'd put 5 gallons in.. open the drain valve.. turn the key on.. watch the drain valve 'til you see clear fuel.. shut the valve off.. wait 'til you hear the pump stop.. try to start it. It may buck'n snort.. but it should clear up.

If the pump won't prime/purge itself ? You can use a Shop-Vac.. on the blow mode.. to apply some pressure to the Tank, to force fuel, to the fuel pump.

 

[IHC Power]

Dead

If the truck won't start with ether then fuel is probably not your problem, cam sensor if it has not been done yet, look at the tach and verify engine speed, if none change the sensor. Try not to use ether on it either that stuff is terrible for a indirect injected engine. Hope this helps.

 

[dachshund]

I would put more fuel in it. This sounds just like the symptoms I had on more than one occasion. When my fuel light comes on I know I can drive about 85 miles at 70 mph(about 5 usable gallons)until she is dry. But if my low fuel light comes on and I stop and let it sit for a few hours it will run out of fuel and die soon after starting. It took me doing the "hutch mod" to figure out why this was the case. There is a little valve in line about 2"above the fuel pickup in the tank that is exposed directly to fuel or air. I have no idea what it is intended to do but apparently it would leak when fuel got below this little valve and allow air into the system. I can only assume, but as long as I kept running it would stay sealed due to a good prime. After sitting I assume fuel would leak or drain back to the tank and could not establish a prime due to air bypassing that valve. What ever the case, by eliminating this valve it has never given me any problems since.

When you do the "Hutch Mod" you insert steel line through the rubber foot past this valve thereby disabling it.

Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

 

[BIG JOE]

I would put more fuel in it. This sounds just like the symptoms I had on more than one occasion. When my fuel light comes on I know I can drive about 85 miles at 70 mph(about 5 usable gallons)until she is dry. But if my low fuel light comes on and I stop and let it sit for a few hours it will run out of fuel and die soon after starting. It took me doing the "hutch mod" to figure out why this was the case. There is a little valve in line about 2"above the fuel pickup in the tank that is exposed directly to fuel or air. I have no idea what it is intended to do but apparently it would leak when fuel got below this little valve and allow air into the system. I can only assume, but as long as I kept running it would stay sealed due to a good prime. After sitting I assume fuel would leak or drain back to the tank and could not establish a prime due to air bypassing that valve. What ever the case, by eliminating this valve it has never given me any problems since.

When you do the "Hutch Mod" you insert steel line through the rubber foot past this valve thereby disabling it.

Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

Right On.

That's the valve/fitting* I've posted about 'til most of the members are prolly sick'n tired of hear' it...

At Low fuel levels.. As long as you keep moving, with fuel sloshing around, the engine will keep running. Yer sucking air in, but with.... enough fuel. (kinda Doggie power ?)

Let it sit still, at Idle.. More Air, Than Fuel, gets drawn into the line.. pump looses prime.. engine starves out.. and quits.

Two Options:

1, Do the "Hutch Mod".

2. Keep the fuel tank at least 1/3rd to 1/2 full.

Don't know if Ford fixed this yet, on the Single tank PSDs, but the older the truck, the more likely it is, this can happen.





* This valve/fitting is called: A Mixing Valve. It's supposed to keep the fuel "Moving around". (Cold weather thing, Anti-Gelling maybe ?)

 

[dachshund]

Joe,

Not sure if your referring to the mixing chamber(white thing) or the little red check valve in the foot? I was specifically referring to the red valve on the side of the rubber foot sucking air. Either way it's all gone now.

Before I knew of the problems of the factory setup: About 5 years ago I ran out of fuel in Memphis and $900 later it was running again. I put 5 gallons in but still no go. Had it towed to the closest Ford dealer with a diesel mechanic which was a mile down the road. He put more fuel in it and after working on it literally all day(I was there before they opened) came to the conclusion the pickup assembly was sucking air. Couldn't find anything wrong with it but it would start and run fine on a gallon jug of fuel. Replaced the sending unit/fuel pickup and all was well again.

 

[BIG JOE]

Joe,

Not sure if your referring to the mixing chamber(white thing) or the little red check valve in the foot? I was specifically referring to the red valve on the side of the rubber foot sucking air. Either way it's all gone now.

Before I knew of the problems of the factory setup: About 5 years ago I ran out of fuel in Memphis and $900 later it was running again. I put 5 gallons in but still no go. Had it towed to the closest Ford dealer with a diesel mechanic which was a mile down the road. He put more fuel in it and after working on it literally all day(I was there before they opened) came to the conclusion the pickup assembly was sucking air. Couldn't find anything wrong with it but it would start and run fine on a gallon jug of fuel. Replaced the sending unit/fuel pickup and all was well again.

To Cut to the Chase.. IMO,That Whole assembly, from the sending unit down, by design, is questionable (nice words).

Either portion of it, white or red, can suck air.. at low fuel levels.. as already discussed.

AND.. IF the FUEL PUMP INLET fitting is sucking air in (most do) ... because of the in tank fittings close proximity to the Pick-up foot (Duckbill).. the fuel system Never gets purged of air.. because the mixing valve (Chamber) keeps shoot'n return fuel.. with air bubbles in it.. past the pick-up foot.. a "Vicious Circle" effect. The fuel pump doesn't like Air, and neither do the Injectors.

(My Preach'n again) Do the Hutch Mod.. and replace that Inlet fitting with a piece of fuel hose.. yul eliminate possibilities of running the engine out of fuel at lower tank levels.. and also allow the fuel system to be purged of air. (as it should be)

"Cackle" is noticeably reduced.. yer PSD will run Stronger too. Fer cheap ?

Joe

 

[dirttysouth]

Aight got a chance to mess with the truck today....I was wrong it will start and run on ether(I know I know, its bad but I had to start somewhere), so its definitely a fuel problem. I drained the bowl and put a new filter in and tried the shop vac thing(actually I used a leaf blower) and still nothing.....I know everyone is saying so the hutch mod, but I would like to know the truck is operational before I go doing any mods...Any other ideas?