Oil Pan Replacement

[txastuff79]

well, if you dont mind taking the time, i helped a friend make a three piece oil pan. its hard to explain but it turned out great. we thought about patenting it but when the lawyer said it would start at 5k and possibly go higher, both of our broke @sses said nope. anyways.

we took a new oil pan. measured out two spots to cut-measured the truck to see where would be best. then took i believe it was 16 guage metal. made 1 1/4 inch tall pieces that were clamped together and eventually welded standing up on the pan that went to the edge. took many tys to to get them to fit nicely on the pan. would have been easier to cut the pan and use as a tracer but wanted the pan for strength and didnt want it to warp/flex when doing it. the thickness of the blade that cut the pan was the thickness of the gasket material sandwiched in the 1 1/4 inch pieces. we used many 5/16 bolts and nuts. drilled the holes thru the flanges and welded the nuts on one side. once done, we realized we miss calculated and had to move the flanges over to clear.

in all, it took two oil pans but it fits like a dream now. i thought about doing mine but mine isnt leaking so why fix it if it aint broke. he still has the measurements needed to do it.

 

[JimmyDee]

I have a 2001 that was rusted bad. Nothing rusted through yet but I did a POR-15 recoating last week and it looks great. I understand many have saved their pans by treating and coating with the POR-15 treatment. It is supposed to be good for a long time. Job took about 1 1/2 hours under the truck but all day because of drying parts.
If it has to be replaced some day, I think I would like to have the measurments txastuff79 came up with for the split pan.
Jim

 

[Chuckster]

Okay... What's POR 15

 

[JLDickmon]

well, if you dont mind taking the time, i helped a friend make a three piece oil pan. its hard to explain but it turned out great. we thought about patenting it but when the lawyer said it would start at 5k and possibly go higher, both of our broke @sses said nope. <clip> he still has the measurements needed to do it.

man that sounds like as much work as pulling the engine...

 

[JimmyDee]

Okay... What's POR 15

Here is what you need to do a complete job and have it last.
Jim
SUPER STARTER KIT-POR-15 Inc.

 

[JSPulliam21]

Couldn't you clean all of the paint and rust off of the spot and weld a pad over the leaky spot? Then coat it with POR-15 or some other coating.

 

[JimmyDee]

If its leaking, yes that can be done. I have also heard that a fiberglass patch will work great also and then do a POR-15 over that. I'm hoping mine won't get to that point.
Jim

 

[Hoss 350]

YES, you have to pull the engine to replace the pan.

However, if I were you and you were me, here's how I would do it.

Get a piece of sheet metal (18 gauge? 16 gauge??? I dunno what gauge the pan is now, but something close to that???) and clean the heck out of your current pan. Rough it up good with 60 grit paper, both the pan and the patch piece. Use a two part steel epoxy (like JB weld?) to patch the pan with the piece of sheet metal.

I know this sound hokey, but my experience with JB weld has been VERY good. As follows:

1969 Ford Bronco took a piece of rebar through the bottom of the radiator. Scufed up the area around the hole, scuffed up a half dollarpiece, stuck it on and let it set up. Figured it might last until I got home. 6 years later, on a pressurized radiator, it is still there and STILL DOESN'T LEAK!!!

1982 Chevy diesel had run in wheat scrub for so long, that the diesel tank had literally been worn down to paper thin, started developing pinholes. Every time a hole started leaking, I JB welded a dime or a penny or a quarter to the hole, and it has been about 10 years and NOT ONE OF THEM has failed. THis was in field conditions WITH DIESEL FUEL ALL OVER THE AREA OF ADHESION!!! Last time I saw the truck, the owner bragged that he had about 5.23 worth of change plugging up the leak.

FWIW, I would JB wled a patch on it, scrub the whole pan clean, then use a 2-part epoxy paint or some rattle-can cold galv and call it good. Then, after finishing the cleanup, I would fill it with a couple quarts of oil, then drain it to get any scunge you knocked in there during the fix.

I sure as heck wouldn't pull the motor until i tried this and it failed.

 

[DaveBen]

Hoss's idea gets my vote. JB weld is great stuff!

Dave

 

[turfdude30]

rusted oil pan

we replaced a rusted oil pan on a 99 f-350 7.3 by cutting the front crossmember with a handheld grinder w cutting wheel, carefully without cutting the brakeline that runs along the cross member. replacing pan then welding back in. Truck is fine, carrys a 9 ft boss plow and v box salter. could have been done in one sunday but forgot the new dipstick tube. seems never ending with these fords we have lately, if its not rusted lines, its wheel bearings, bad lockouts, horrible braking systems, I cant imagine if we had to pay for labor too. these trucks would break us. Any input? dont mean to discourge the hobbyist or enthusiast, just using these trucks to earn a living !!! also adding prior to changing pan, we J B welded the pan several times, works great, got more time out of it, but eventually had to change it, using a small hand torch is a good way to prep pan for jb weld, helps burn out oil and clean up the rust holes.