Power Door Lock Problem **UPDATE -Fixed it**

[Crumm]

Hit lock on door or remote and all 4 doors lock.

Hit unlock on door and there is a click under dash like a relay but no doors unlock or even make noise.

Hit unlock on remote and drivers door unlocks. Hit unlock on remote again to unlock other three doors and the other three doors lock instead of unlock.



Fuses and breaker are good.

The wires into the left rear door were bad when I pulled them apart. One wire was broken but it was a power window wire according to color when i traced it out. Lock wires had some bare spots but were connected. I fixed the bad spot in the harness but nothing changed. Wiring to other three doors appear to be fine.

Any idears?

 

[95_stroker]

Any idears?

GEM?

 

[Russ]

might have to reprogram it. I found directions on the web.

 

[Crumm]

might have to reprogram it. I found directions on the web.

Do share the instructions please, please and please

I have checked all the wiring from behind all four kick panels to the actuators and it all seems fine now that I rewired the one that was chaffed. I found some instructions on how to test the switches but the remote won't work either so it must be deeper than the switches. I am wondering if the bare wires shorted something out. No blown fuses and the door switch does make a click under the dash. The remote does lock the doors and unlock the drivers door so the whole system isn't fried..

 

[Russ]

I Think I have it saved on another pc let me look for it.

 

[Russ]

Found it you have to scroll down Remote Keyless Entry TSB 97-24-13

 

[Crumm]

Found it you have to scroll down Remote Keyless Entry TSB 97-24-13

J. Turn ignition to RUN or ACC. Momentarily jump pins in programming connector located at the base of the steering column. All doors will lock then unlock to confirm programming mode. Press any button on 1st transmitter. The door locks will lock then unlock to confirm programming. Press any button on 2nd transmitter (up to 4 transmitters total possible). Turn ignition to OFF. The door locks will lock then unlock to confirm programming.

Any idea what this programming connector looks like?

I am going to try reprogramming but where the unlock switch on the door itself will not work but the transmitter will unlock the drivers door I am thinking that it isn't in the programming. I am however going to try as I have tried everything else.

Thanks for the link.

 

[Russ]

It's been awhile since I've been under the dash. IIRC The box is located right behind the cubby hole to the passenger side of the steering column Can't recall the shape of the plug at the moment.

 

[Crumm]

Been thinking on this.

Door switches will not unlock anything yet remote will unlock the drivers door. For those without a remote when you push it once it is suppose to unlock drivers door and then push it a second time it is suppose to unlock the other three. Since the one will work I am ruling it out and the remote out for now, problem must be in one of the other three. From all the research I have done they are wired in series so if one quits they all quit.

Here are my questions:

1. I can pull the kick panels off easy enough but there are a ton of wires that run into the doors. What two run to the actuator on the rear doors and what ones run to the actuator and switch on the right front door? If someone has a wiring diagram it would save me pulling all the door panels.

2. How do the actuators work? +, - to lock and -, + to unlock or + to one side to lock and + to the other side to unlock? Mine will lock but not unlock so I am thinking they must be grounded through the body but I don't know.

Thanks for any technical assistance you can offer.

 

[Russ]

Crumm How hard are the knobs to pull manually? My rear drivers side door lock is tight enough that the remote won't unlock it, but if I hit the drivers unlock button several times the rear door lock will slowly rise and unlock the door. Might be that the rods need some lubrication.