Sound Deadening build log

[clintusaf]

Hey guys,

So I recently got back into car audio and I am in the process of installing an SQ(sound quality) system in my truck. I always wanted to do some type of sound treatment to my truck, and upgrading my audio system really energized me to do so. So, I have spent the past few months researching the car audio forums, and the superduty forums. I ran across a website called Sound Deadener Showdown(SDS). This guy had been in the car audio business for quite some time and had been using dynamat and the like for years. But he noticed something lacking in the business and started his own business selling products, but also offering in depth advice, theory and scientific data to back it up, and how-to's. Anyway, I decided to use his techniques, but did not end up purchasing through his website because I was able to find the supplies cheaper through various vendors. The techniques used I have been told are the same ones the Aston Martin uses. These techniques also aid with stabilizing internal cabin temperatures during temperature swings.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

So far, I have only completed my front doors. I will be treating: doors, entire floor and as far up the firewall without removing the dash, back wall, and roof. I will be adding updates to this as I go. These techniques take longer than your normal sound deadening treatments, but I know I will be pleased with the outcome. I took some initial DB readings with a simple iPhone app before I treated any areas. I will post readings after treating the entire cab and the readings will all be taken in identical conditions(same section's of road, AC/stereo off, etc..)The initial results were:

Idle: 65 DB
70 mph highway-82 db
full throttle-25mph-3K RPM-89 DB

For the doors, First, I removed the trim panel, cleaned all the inner and outer surfaces with purple power and then alcohol. I used the 25-50% coverage method with CLD(constrained layer dampener) tiles. This is what most people refer to as sound deadener(dynamat). Most people think complete coverage with multiple layers of CLD do the job, and it does offer some deadening effect, but not like the techniques will offered by SDS. The CLD tiles are meant to stop panel resonance. I got my Audiotechnix 80 mil CLD tiles from Ebay while they were on sale.

This pic shows where I placed the CLD tiles on the inside of the inner door sheet metal. There was only room for 3 smaller tiles. I used a silver sharpie to outline them. If you attempt this, grab one. It's also handy to outline areas to trim on your MLV.

Inside of outer door sheet metal. I placed 4-5 larger tiles here.

I also used some extruded butyl rope in the gap between the outer door sheet metal and the bar. Unfornately, I added it after this pic. I will take more as I go to show you in more detail.

Second, I took the stock plastic/vinyl covering that was on the door under the trim panel and used it for a pattern for my mass loaded vinyl(MLV). The MLV is used as a barrier against air borne sound. I am basically trying to build a bubble within my truck with this material. This stuff is heavy too. It comes in different thicknesses, but the one I used was 1 LB per sq ft. To decouple the MLV from the sheet metal, I used closed cell foam(CCF). I installed a full coverage layer on to the MLV. I chose to use a CCF product called Ensolite sold by RAMM audio. It is a peel and stick CCF, and I did not feel like messing with contact cement as suggested on SDS. I bought 100sqft of MLV from TM soundproofing. To install this on the door, I used 2"X 2" squares of a high grade military hook and loop tape(Velcro). Don at SDS actually had Velcro develop a product that would specifically adhere to vinyl and sells it on his website. I had this stuff laying around and decided to try it, and have not seen any problems yet. Time will tell. One of the nice things about using this method is that you can remove the MLV/CCF barrier when you need access to the door.

To get the trim panel back on can be a pain. I did a lot of test fitting and trimming to get them back on properly. One good thing about the MLV is that when it stretches, it turns white. So by observing for these areas after test fitting a few times, you should be able to tell where you need to do some trimming.

This pic shows the CCF Ensolite applied. I found it to be much easier to apply the CCF to the MLV before trimming for the areas applicable.

MLV side

Installed onto door

I figured I'd throw these in here too. They are some tweeter pods I made from PVC and then mounted them to the dash using steel nipples(like the ones used in lamps) and nuts on each side. Found the idea on a car audio forum and just ran with it. The paint was some I had left over from my gauge pod install.

More to come. I have been doing a door a night so far and hope to have it done by this weekend.

 

[WD40]

Great write up , I have been wanting to do this to my 06 F-350. I just like it quite inside.
Keep up your good work.
Doug

 

[clintusaf]

I did one of the rear doors tonight. I was going to try to do both, but discovered that my 6 yr old water heater in the attic was leaking and bulging at the seam!! So, had to put the other door on hold. Anyway, I took a few photos of the materials I have been using. I know this is kinda in reverse order, but oh well.

Here is a pic of(from left to right) the MLV, Audio Technix CLD tiles, and the Ensolite CCF.

Here are some of the tools and the Velcro I used.

Here is the extruded butyl rope mentioned in my previous post. I used it here. Our trucks come with a foam piece spaced every 6-8 in and probably serve the same purpose as the rope does, but I had already ordered it for this purpose and figured what the hell.

Here is the MLV with a layer of CCF applied and ready to be hung on the rear door.

And here it is mounted on the door. And again, I had to do some minor trimming after test fitting the door panel on a few times.

 

[clintusaf]

I managed to finish the other rear door tonight and remove my back seat in order to do the back wall and start on the floor. Hoping to be done with everything but the roof by this weekend.


You can see the stock CLD tiles installed here. They are much thinner than the Audio Technix CLD tiles. I will probably do 50-60% of the back wall.

Here you can see how much the cabin vents protrude from the rear wall. I will be removing these for this reason. I am having a custom box built and I need every inch of space I can get. I have already tried flipping the seat brackets, but didnt like it after living with it for a while.

Looking forward to having this done!!

 

[clintusaf]

Well, I didnt get to work on it tonight, but I did manage to find a gem on craigslist today and will be installing a center jumpseat(paid $100 for it!!) in place of my center console when I'm done.

And picked up these fender flares off of an 06' Lariat for $75 as well. What do you guys think? not too sure about them yet.

 

[clintusaf]

Well, I managed to remove my seats and carpet today. I also did some test fitting with my new jumpseat. I did find that there are two extra holes for the rear mounts in the floor for the jumpseat, but they are not threaded like the others. So, looks like I will pick up some hardware to for it. I also need to remove the post where the armrests were mounted on my captains chairs.


I also was able to treat the entire floor and back wall with the CLD tiles. Here are the pics.


Here is after removing the carpet. There was actually quite a bit of stock sound deadening (CLD tiles) on my floor and even some MLV looking material up on the firewall behind the dash.

Here, you can see the rear cabin vents removed. I had planned on removing them completely, but then realized that there isnt enough space between the bed and back wall. And I didnt feel like removing my bed. So, I went to work with my razor knife. I managed to remove the left one while leaving the trim ring intact which I noticed that it would help to keep some dust and water out. By the time I got to the right one, I got frustrated and just ended up ripping it out with some pliers. Probably didnt help that I was listening to Korn and shouldve been listening to Mumford and Sons, LOL! I really need to get me a dremel. I do have a plan though to create a flap over the rear cabin vents with some MLV and still allow air flow within the cabin. Will post pics of that when I get to it later. I also removed my C-pillar covers and treated the inside of the 6X8 speaker locations, as well as the C-pillars. I removed the grill cover from the trim piece to allow me access to that area for storage or whatever I choose. I will not be running rear speakers besides my sub. These speaker locations couldnt have been much worse as it is.

Here is after I had vacuumed and cleaned all surfaces with purple power and then alcohol. This is so the CLD tiles will adhere nicely to the sheet metal.

Here is after treating the floor and back wall with the Audio Technix CLD tiles. The maple roller really saved my fingers here. It also helps them to adhere betterby putting more pressure than your fingers can. The aluminum layer will slice you up and you barely feel it. other than that, they were very easy to work with and apply. I ended up doing more than 25%, but I had so much of it, I figured I'd go ahead and use it. I have about 4 12"X24" sheets left to do the roof and maybe the hood. I selected the areas to treat by simply knocking on the sheet metal to tell where it would resonate the most.

I will post more when I can. I will be adding the MLV/CCF layer next. I am also waiting on my OFC 0 gauge amp kit to arrive early this week before I throw the carpet back in.

 

[clintusaf]

I was able to do the front half of the floor tonight with the MLV/CCF layers. Here are some pics of the MLV laid out with the CCF before I stuck the two together. I went ahead and made large combination sections since I would not be using the velcro on the floor like I did with the doors.

This piece was split evenly and used for the left and right floor pans/seat deck. I installed it with the CCF side down against the sheet metal to act as a decoupler. If I have enough CCF left over, I will be treating the topside of the MLV over the floor pans.

This was kind of a trial by error process. I used a 3M vinyl tape. It holds well enough to hold the stuff in place, but you can easily remove it if you need to readjust something and it doesn't leave a residue. The MLV can bend simple turns, but will need to be cut when you have corners and such.

Right floor pan and center hump covered. I used three strips to do this.

Test fit with driver's seat and my new jumpseat, and I needed something to sit in to drive to work tomorrow.

I will post more tomorrow after doing the rear floor pan/seat deck and backwall.

 

[Dogman]

Make shore you cut out for the cab bolts, even if it's a X cut. Never know when you need to get to them for motor work.

 

[clintusaf]

Thanks for the tip. An that makes me wonder, where are the cab bolts for the front located? I have been trying to keep things like that in mind as I go along, and not hinder any future maintenance. But I didnt see any for the front as I did my install. I see the ones behind the rear seat and had already planned to cut around them.

 

[Dogman]

There under the rubber plugs, there 4 or 6 of them I believe.