Start/No Start then Start/No Start. Not Fuel Filters...

[BigMook89508]

You can do the ICP and IPR with the turbo on.
Remove the intake, the degas bottle (or at least remove the holddown bolts and push it to the side), and the FICM. You should be able to reach around and do what you need to do. You will need to plug up the small hose openings on the degas bottle or drain 2 gallons of coolant. I have small sections of hose with plugs in the end that I put on them. I also put plugs in the ends of the small hoses when I remove them from the degas bottle.

There are good videos on it - IIRC DieselTechRon has a few.

Don't try to fire it off without the turbo on.

There are different Turbos for the 6.0L depending on how much horsepower you want or what type of performance you want (towing, acceleration, etc). They even sell non-VGT turbos (you need a tune for it).

The OEM turbo is fine IMO, but I really like the turbos sold by KC Turbo.

Okay. I have everything out if the way so I can get to the Turbo. I included pics of the intake tube coming from the air filter and thus us the melted part that connects ti the intake side if the Turbo. The part that melted is almost exactly above the IPR valve. I wonder if excessive heat from a failing Turbo burned out the IPR.

I will pull the Turbo soon as the IPR and ICP are expected to be delivered today so I can attack it this weekend. I removed the De-Gas bottle completely and clamped the large hose shut. Seems better than fighting it still connected.

Will update in Turbo condition and if it starts after replacement.

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[BigMook89508]

It appears that someone has had this turbo out before there is insulation added at the front under the turbo and the 2 rear bolts on the left and right that mount the turbo to the stand are missing completely. I have the one small band left to remove and I can tale the turbo out to do the ICO & IPR. I suppose it is a crap shoot if the turbo came out to replace it or to do the HPOP. What should I be looking for as evidence or to determine if the Turbo is having and issue?

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[BigMook89508]

It appears that someone has had this turbo out before there is insulation added at the front under the turbo and the 2 rear bolts on the left and right that mount the turbo to the stand are missing completely. I have the one small band left to remove and I can tale the turbo out to do the ICO & IPR. I suppose it is a crap shoot if the turbo came out to replace it or to do the HPOP. What should I be looking for as evidence or to determine if the Turbo is having and issue?

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Okay. The Turbo is out. Looks like I have the darn crossover in the back. I have a new seal kit coming tomorrow for the Turbo. Paper gasket, new O-Rings as well as replacement mounting bolts and the spacers.

It looks like I still have to remove the FICM to replace the ICP & IPR though. I will work on the today and tomorrow. Nasty weather expected here in Reno Sunday, Monday and Tuesday though. I will only be able to work as weather permits.

Photos below of open area. For some reason there was insulation under there too if engine in front of the Turbo.

Unfortunately I am not getting the easier access like all the brag videos on YouTube and gave the motor with everything imaginable in the way.

Any other ideas? Think maybe the HPOP was replaced? The Garrett Turbo looks original, but I wouldn't know. Wait I just saw it. A remanufactured sticker.

So this Turbo was already swapped out.

I will do what I went in for and see if it starts up. I dread having to maybe disassemble it all again to do the HPOP.

Let me know your thoughts please.

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[BigMook89508]

Now that I have my blinders off. The FICM is remanufactured as well.

I noticed the the center plug in the FICM was detached when I pulled it off this time. I assume that would also cause a no start as well.

I am also missing the bolt in the photo. EGR cooler?

My hope is ti replace what I am in there for. Replace missing bolts and new seals and this thing will start. Missing this 2 mounting bolts in the Turbo, wouldn't that cause it to move around when under pressure? Could that be the DTM code?

When I would drive it while towing if I was putting a load in the motor and then back off the pedal quickly I would get a noise like blowback or maybe what you would hear in a discharge port. I know this truck does not have one of those. Could it be the turbo moving due to one bolt holding it down?

I really hate getting into things like this and seeing such poor workmanship from someone else leaving thier mess for me.

Ant ideas or thoughts fir me to consider while I have this all opened up?

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[BigMook89508]

Okay. IPR and ICP are out. I was given an ICP with finer threads so I have to get that exchanged and that looks like at least Tuesday.

The IPR was really in there tight. I thought it would break in half before it broke free. I just kept steady pressure on it until it broke free. Not sure but the screen looks pretty well clogged. Cannot tell really. There was definitely a lot of oil in it when it came out.

I will do the IPR today but tonight through Tuesday is supposed to be a cold winter storm.

Let me know your thoughts on all the recent posts.

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[bismic1]

Been on vacation. Just got back. haven't read all your posts, but ALL 6.0L ICP sensors have the same thread. Where in the world did you get that ICP sensor?

 

[BigMook89508]

Been on vacation. Just got back. haven't read all your posts, but ALL 6.0L ICP sensors have the same thread. Where in the world did you get that ICP sensor?

Got from Rock Auto. It was crazy. Twice sent me ICP that was too big and would not thread into the hole. Had to order both ICP and IPR because there were not un town.

Even the IPR was about a 1/4" too ling and it would not seat nor would the plug portion line up toward the top to be able to plug it in. Who knows fir what vehicle they were sending, but finally got it straightened out.

Finally both arrived yesterday and I got them in. I am waiting on the replacement inlet tube that should be delivered today and this weekend I can start putting it all back together again.

Turbo impellers spin freely by hand and I hear no noises like bad bearings or anything. Residual oil has drained from the Turbo on my workbench.

So new I have new IPR, new ICP, installed Blue Sprung kit. The truck has a entirely new HFCM. Got the seal kit for the Turbo that includes the O-Rings and paper gasket as well as the 3 bolts to secure it, nit the single bolt that was holding it in when I removed it.

Since I unplugged the wire harness I was able to make certain that all injector plugs are secure.

If this thing doesn't start now I suppose it just has to be the HPOP at this point. Right?

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[bismic1]

A couple of things come to mind (if it doesn't start) .....

First, there has been a rash of standpipes failing quickly - even new ones failing immediately upon install. TYPICALLY it is the 2004.5 and up standpipes that have issues, but it seems it is related to the quality (or lack there-of) of o-ring material. because of that, the issues might also affect the 03 and early 04 standpipes.

Because of this, a person needs to get good at air testing. It is impossible to identify a leak in the high pressure system otherwise. It used to be enough to say that if the standpipes and dummy plugs were original, just replace them. Now, that strategy isn't wise. You might actually be introducing a problem. As an fyi, the 03 and early 04's don't have dummy plugs. I was just "generalizing" when I included them in the earlier statement.

Second, the IPR valve electronics will rotate independently of the base threads. This allows for the connector to be moved to the necessary position AFTER the IPR valve has been installed. It might be hard to rotate, but I assure you, they all do.

Lastly, even a bad HPOP can often times be identified in an air test. It isn't always the case, but it is probably a 50/50 endeavor.

 

[bismic1]

I suspect with the IPR valve, you might have ordered one for the late 04. They are not intended to "interchange" with the 03 and early 04.

Who knows, maybe RA sent you a 7.3L 2003 ICP sensor ....

I know Rock Auto has good prices, but I REALLY prefer ordering from AutoNation White Bear Lake, or from FordParts.com and specifying a local dealership so I don't have to pay shipping. You get GOOD prices when buying parts in this manner.

 

[bismic1]

You can get by with 2 bolts of the turbo. Having only one bolt could cause a problem I would imagine.

That bolt on the intake and EGR cooler just stabilizes the system. That helps support the up-pipe. Sometimes the exhaust system "bellows" (or expansion joints) get to vibrating and fail.