Transfer Case

bushpilot

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ATF... that's the correct weight, and what's called for. 75w is way too thick.

Bush - Aside from wasting expensive SP, what would it hurt? I think you could pretty much run olive oil in a transfer case and it would be fine 95% of the time... I know SP has some unique properties, but as a regular lube for straight running bearings, I can't see how it would hurt it. Might be way overkill though.


I agree...and pick YOU and YOUR TRUCK as the 1st to test it...
let us know how it turns out ;)
 

david5303

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i very much apreciate all your answers,i apoligize if some of my questions, they may seem remedial but i just trying to learn. this is the first vehicle that i have boughten that was more than my house LOL
 

bushpilot

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david we are w/ cha man....and sorry if SOME get testy...were all
just here to help...bama has his good days and bad days...we all just try to
ignore it ;)
 

david5303

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So to get this straight.......i would be good to go if....i used Royal Purple ATF in transfer case,Mercon SP in the transmission and Royal Purple 75W140 in the rear diff? ANd does the RP 75W140 need the Ford diff additive?
 

bushpilot

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So to get this straight.......i would be good to go if....i used Royal Purple ATF in transfer case,Mercon SP in the transmission and Royal Purple 75W140 in the rear diff? ANd does the RP 75W140 need the Ford diff additive?

:clap: and who said you werent a quick study ;)

you got it SPOT ON...no need to add (or buy) a limited slip
friction modifier to the RP gear lubes (its already mixed in).

while youve got that UGLY <rusting> cover off the REAR diff
(g'head ask us how we know its brown w/ surface rust)...you
might wanna consider this "cheap" upgrade.... DieselManor - Ford Sterling Differential cover
 
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david5303

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Actually Bushpilot i already have one that is predrilled for a fill hole and a drain hole. Just trying to figure out if it is worth clearcoating to keep if from oxidizing or if the clearcoat will hold heat in off setting the advatages of the fins. Funny thing 3 months ago i couldnt spell diesel, now i r a genious LOL
 

bushpilot

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at one point i did use a laser thermometer out of curiosity
to see what the rear diff <cover> temp was....forget what it
did measure...but it was fairly WARM...north of 120* iirc

the pre-2008 factory cover is stamped steal & the heat is
whats baking the paint off 'em...the cycling of temps and the
exposure to the elements adds to its rust.

the aftermarket covers (the better ones) are alum. (as is the
2008 cover)...the mag-hytec's are powder coated...the fin's
on the covers will reduce the temps.
 

Kleetus

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I agree...and pick YOU and YOUR TRUCK as the 1st to test it...
let us know how it turns out ;)

If I had an extra case of it around I would, but with as expensive as this stuff is, I'd make the trip to the local store and get the cheaper flavor!

Hey that rear cover... am I loosing my marbles or did I see it someplace else for $45 a couple months back?
 

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