Fuel pump -OR- clogged tank pickup?

action4478

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So did I. He just called and said there is no spring behind the o-ring, plastic doo-hickey and in front of the yellow ball so yesterday looking for the IMAGINARY spring in my dusty gravel driveway was his error. I'll say! :tongue2 So he'll try to get by here later today and put it back together. He added that if my cam shaft was worn the pump wouldn't work properly. :eek: :rant Gosh he's a funny guy. :roflmao


Remind him that camshaft's are never intermittant ......
 

hheynow

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He got it back together & it didn't work?.......

That's right. FPR is back together and it was a bear to prime and finally start but once again 20 psi then it drops and the FUEL FILTER light is on. So we disconnected the rear fuel line in segments and blew 30 psi from a compressor and isolated the restriction. It's between the fuel selector valve rearward to the rear tip of the steel line. So tomorrow he wants ME to remove the fuel selector valve and blow through it. It's a chore to get at with the front tank in the way. If clogged I suggested soaking it in warm B50 at 150*F to melt any coagulated veggie oil that may have blocked the passage way. If clear he wants me to run 3/8" fuel line from the rear tank to forward of the fuel selector valve to verify 40 psi by bypassing the selector valve. If the steel line is clogged I'm replacing it with biodiesel compatible fuel injection hose. He left his fuel gauge hooked to the schrader.
 

action4478

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If you can see the entire line , could you use a heat gun to loosen the blockage ?....
 

hheynow

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If you can see the entire line , could you use a heat gun to loosen the blockage ?....

Not the entire steel line. Most of it is hidden by my front tank. I will try to feed an insulated copper wire through it from the rear forward to the valve. I truly believe the problem is the fuel selector valve. Yes I have a heat gun and we talked about using it yesterday. If I can't melt out the obstruction the valve will be replaced, but I fear the front tank may need to be dropped. The 6 port Pollack valve is a replacement for the OEM fuel selector valve and it's the weakest part of my conversion. I've read many threads about Pollack valve failures and the consensus is that they fail when they see too much heat. I re-plumed my fuel path two days ago so the pollack will see less heat but the veg oil will still get as hot as needed. The heat exchanger is now AFTER the valve.


b_c_s 00 Nope! It's a bump in the road. :trip The saga has alerted me that I need to find a competent mechanic. :rant
 

hheynow

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How about you :sweet

Me? :dunno :lmao Actually I've been watching carefully and have learned more about my fuel system in the last month than in the past 5 years. I'm sick and tired of paying mechanic's rates for every little thing done to it. I'm a quick learner and am anal that things are perfect before I'm satisfied. Hopefully soon I'll be my best customer. :D One thing's fer sure...I'm installing my next fuel pump myself.
 

BlueMule

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Richard,
Ive got at least one Pollak valve out in the shed, and If I did deep enough Im sure there is another one around here somewhere. If you need it let me know.

Ya might as well go fill the gas tank on that Nissan, looks like you'll be driving it for a while longer.
 

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