Help! Where do I put the egt probe?

bushpilot

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ok so lets do some REAL trouble shooting....
disconnect the probe wires from the back of the guage...
leave the guage connected to your power source...

turn the key on...does the guage snap to zero ? this should
help you eliminate your power issues and either point you to the
probe.

i just checked my guage...its sitting at about 100* w/ the truck
off (havent driven the truck in 2days)...when i turn my key ON
the guage snaps down a bit...not to zero, but i live in texas, its
830pm and its still 80*+ outside.
 

bushpilot

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heres another thought...you said your wires were made on to the probe
all one piece...you didnt shorten the wires did you ? theyre an inherent
part of the over all resistant for the probe...shortening the wires
will give you inaccurate readings (improper resistance).

ill start doing some googling to find out what the resistance is suposed
to be for a normal probe...and we can start testing the probe to see
if its bad. (a new probe will run you about 29 or 39 bucks at the most)
 

skyhawk1

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bushpilot, I just went out and disconnected the red and yellow wires from the guage and then turned the key on and nothing happened. I touched the posts on the guage to the red and yellow wires and it snapped down again. Also, I havn't cut the wires. I really think it's the probe. I am going to call the man tomorrow and see if he'll replace the probe. I do appreciate all the help.
 

bushpilot

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well if they wont replace the probe ask 'em to ohm out
a NEW probe and to tell you what the resistance is...then
you can check your probes resistance to compare it
to what they tell you.

Know that the resistance is gonna vary based on the
ambiant temp (the pyro probe provides its signal by
a thermo-resistor)...so if i were to measure mine (here
in HOT texas) and youre in the (cool) mountains of wva
were gonna get different readings.

Ill be happy to pull my guage and measure the resistance
across the pyro probe (when disconnected from the guage)...
but i would think if your probe is BAD it should be fairly obvious
when you try to ohm it out (maybe be shorted or if its broken
wires it will show completely open)

you might consider contacting AUTOMETER HERE
perhaps they can tell you what the proper resistance/ohm range should be too.

Ive also found information on autometers website confirming how their
electrical guages (should) work...and they specifically mention pyro/egt
guages.

from AUTOMETERs Web/FAQ:
Why doesn't my tach pointer rest at zero when the ignition is off?

We get a lot of questions about this. Here is the reason, along with some specifics for each product. Most of the electric instruments that we offer use what is called an air core meter. In layman's terms, this means there is no physical part to hold the pointer where it sits, or to force it back to zero when power is removed. It uses an electrical charge to return to zero when power is applied, and when a signal is fed to the instrument, the pointer will indicate the proper reading. This is normal, and no cause for alarm. The unit is not damaged or broken, it just doesn't look like most other instruments out there. For Example: The pointers, on most modern OE (original equipment) gauges, just hang there when power is removed. We use air core movement due to its rapid response characteristics, so when you stomp on the accelerator, the pointer is capable of showing you exact engine RPM.

On some other gauges, such as the pyrometers or EGT gauges, sit off zero, too. But, even after you connect them and turn the power on, the pointer still doesn't go back to zero. What gives? Well, provided the gauge is connected to its probe, it will show the ambient air temperature. So, unless it is zero degrees F outside, it will not read zero. For example, if your vehicle has sat for a long period of time (allowing the engine to completely cool) the gauge will accurately reflect the outdoor temperature when power is applied. If the outdoor temperature is 70 degrees, the gauge will read 70 degress.
 
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skyhawk1

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Well bull! This morning I decided to hook up the boost gauge, just so I could see something move in my new gauges. I teed into the line from the MAP sensor hose, (so easy a caveman could do it), fired it up and nothing again! No movement whatsoever on the boost gauge. So far, the only thing that works is the lights in the gauges. Also, bushpilot, I have a test meter, although I havn't go a clue how to use it. I put it on V DC, touched the red and black probes together and it reads 0. I touched the leads to the red and yellow wires from the EGT probe and it read 0 with the key off. I started the truck and it reads 3.0 to 3.1. When I reved the engine a little it would start climbing up (at 2,000 RPM, it went up over 4.0). So do you think this means the probe is actually working and maybe the gauge itself is bad? Also, do you have any ideas about the boost gauge? Thanks again, skyhawk1
 

whatabudro

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The boost gauge will only move once your driving.;)

You're reading voltage, you need to put the meter on ohms, and read resistance. Like he stated earlier, your reading will be different than his because of ambient temperature. You could however put the probe in an oven for a few minutes at 100* take the reading then compare.
 

CSIPSD

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Sounds like a bad gauge, it has happened before.. yes the boost will only move if you driving or powerbrake it... if you really "blip" the gas it will jump a little...
 

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