Missing/no power

BDJack

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Of the two that were in there, one was bad, other one I had load tested and charged. I know you are supposed to replace both at once, but didnt have the cash to do that if I didnt have to.

Sooo, a brand new one 880cca and 1040 ca and a used but good one 850cca and 1000 ca.

You think voltage because of readout from gpr? I will get a new batt and see what happens.
 

DaveBen

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Biggest reason for a no-start is the batteries. Every body "thinks" their batteries are good, only to find that they are not. LOAD test each one independent of the other. Clean all of the battery terminals and the other end at the starter. Make sure you have 12.5 + volts at the battery post before you start your turck. Good luck BD.

Dave :)
 

BDJack

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Thanks DaveB, BigJoe, I appreciate it. I load tested both at napa, checked out, but since all signs point to this....:dunno
 

BIG JOE

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Of the two that were in there, one was bad, other one I had load tested and charged. I know you are supposed to replace both at once, but didnt have the cash to do that if I didnt have to.

Sooo, a brand new one 880cca and 1040 ca and a used but good one 850cca and 1000 ca.

**You think voltage because of readout from gpr? I will get a new batt and see what happens.

** Yes I do.

Mixing 1 Good, with 1 Marginal, or One series with Another series.... Or ANYTHING other than 2 GOOD STRONG Batteries.. Of the same CCA capabilities, same needed OEM (or +) series.. preferably of the same Brand and "Born On Date".. Won't cut it these dayz... with Computer Controlled engines.

The PCM/ECM is nothing less than a Computer. It sends Micro/Milli volt and amp signals to other Whizo components, and if it doesn't sence Good, Strong, Clear.. >Primary Voltage & Amps< ?? Whala: No Start.

Or if it does start (?).. it could Run at less than normal/desired. (Like Crap ?).



Joe
 
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bigrigr

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Have you checked the cable condition, and the ground connection at the block and frame? I've seen the corrosion travel 3-4 inches up the cables underneath the insulation. It sounds like a voltage drop situation between the batteries and the engine controls. The starter sounds good right? Spins over well, but you don't have enough juice to the gpr. Should be at or very near battery voltage on the two terminals of the relay. If you don't have 12.5 volts to the constant hot terminal just sitting there, don't even attempt to start it. If you don't have 12.5 volts at the output side of the relay when the key is first turned on, it won't be enough to heat the glow plugs properly. where did the voltage go? tough to say, gotta get that multimeter and do some voltage drop tests till you find it. A good wiring diagram would be indispensible at this point.
Sorry for the long post, hope this helps
 

JLDickmon

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Have you checked the cable condition, and the ground connection at the block and frame? I've seen the corrosion travel 3-4 inches up the cables underneath the insulation. It sounds like a voltage drop situation between the batteries and the engine controls.

good post. :clap:
 

BIG JOE

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Have you checked the cable condition, and the ground connection at the block and frame? I've seen the corrosion travel 3-4 inches up the cables underneath the insulation. It sounds like a voltage drop situation between the batteries and the engine controls. The starter sounds good right? Spins over well, but you don't have enough juice to the gpr. Should be at or very near battery voltage on the two terminals of the relay. If you don't have 12.5 volts to the constant hot terminal just sitting there, don't even attempt to start it. If you don't have 12.5 volts at the output side of the relay when the key is first turned on, it won't be enough to heat the glow plugs properly. where did the voltage go? tough to say, gotta get that multimeter and do some voltage drop tests till you find it. A good wiring diagram would be indispensible at this point.
Sorry for the long post, hope this helps

good post. :clap:

X2 ;tu :clap:

A good "Flag" Could be: If the posts or connections are corroded at all.. The cable/wire, inside the shielding might be too (?).
 
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BDJack

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So got two new batts, and still no start. Hooked up a third new one via jumper cables, just for giggles, no dice.

Will attempt same with multimeter readings, see if i am getting 12.5 volts and if that doesnt work, check for corrosion like bigrgr advised.

Appreciate all the posts so far!
 

BDJack

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So its better but I only have 11.75 volts @ battery/gpr. None of the wires appear corroded.

So basically I have too much resistance somewhere, and it is not allowing the current to travel through correctly?

How do I troubleshoot individual wires, do I use resistance?
 

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