My svo kit coming

[hheynow]

Chris on your new found sources. I get all mine in cubies. I take the cardboard off and let them settle. Then I pour off the clear. The empty cubies and cardboard goes to the recycle area at the dump.

Ben I see no mention of de-watering your oil. HERE is how I designed my de-water drum. I wrapped R-13 insulation around the drum with aluminum bubble wrap outside. Slow cooling once at 160*F is the key.

 

[JRJ04]

is it necessary to have the oil cooled as well to keep it from getting too hot? seems like I saw one of your pics that said coolant flow on it??

 

[hheynow]

is it necessary to have the oil cooled as well to keep it from getting too hot? seems like I saw one of your pics that said coolant flow on it??

There is an add-on available to our kits for a vegoil cooler.
The oil is routed through granular dry ice.

 

[bears4x4]

my cooker link and you do need to dewater the oil, it will help your filters last wayt longer My cooker------http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc130/bears4x4/trucks/7920.jpg

 

[bbressler]

What do you think about this for filtering/dewatering?

I've got a propane turkey cooker...what if I put a 5 gallon jug of oil on that, got it up to temp (215?), and poured that through my bed-sheet filter. That'd take care of any water in it, plus, the additional heat would help the filtering process, no? While I wait for jug A to filter, I'd be heating Jug B, and when it was ready to filter, Jug A's oil would be done...

 

[hheynow]

What do you think about this for filtering/dewatering?

I've got a propane turkey cooker...what if I put a 5 gallon jug of oil on that, got it up to temp (215?), and poured that through my bed-sheet filter. That'd take care of any water in it, plus, the additional heat would help the filtering process, no? While I wait for jug A to filter, I'd be heating Jug B, and when it was ready to filter, Jug A's oil would be done...

1) Waste of energy
2) You'll want the oil heated to 300*
3) Takes forever for 5 gallons of 300*F oil to cool enough to pour safely.
4) Heating VO to 300*F does not ensure there is no water! .

I heat my de-watering 55 gallon drum with a band heater to 160*F. Then I turn off the heat. The insulation around the drum allows for slow cooling (36+ hours down to ambient). It's during the slow cooling that the water drops to the bottom of the drum. I drain a bit of oil from the standpipe drain and do a hot pan test for water. If it doesn't pass I'll heat again.

 

[bbressler]

Well crap.

 

[hheynow]

Relax. I'm coming up on my 2nd anniversary dealing with WVO. I've been through the learning curve and made many mistakes in the beginning such as not de-watering and pumping from the bottom of the IBC. Don't rely on your vegoil filter to remove water. They're really more effective at water removal with #2. Remember...there is free and suspended water in oil. Free water will be visible if the oil is well settled (and there's lots of water) or appear like a coffee cream emulsification. Suspended & free water are what de-watering removes. Truly dry oil is crystal clear. IMO SVOers are more finicky about dry oil than home bioD brewers are.

 

[bbressler]

You got any pics of your gauge sending units installed in the hoses? I'm thinking of just a T, but would have to put the unit in one of the sides because of length...

 

[bbressler]

Got my gauges installed last night. Interesting results on the drive to work this morning.

When I first started, I switch to my heated side, (coolant was still cold) and fuel temp got up to 160. So, I'm sure my Vegtherm is working. After getting out on the highway, coolant comes up to temp, hovers around 205. Fuel DROPS to 140 or so. This is highway speed, so I'm sure there's a lot of fuel being used. When I came back to idle after that, my fuel temp when up PAST 200...

Is that normal for what you see? I'm mainly worried about the highway-speed temp and if that's alright...

Thanks