Quick question

[Lord Tauk]

Some tips I know;

You can drill or not drill a relief hole for the pipe tap's drill size, you're drilling into cast iron that has a fairly thin wall, it's not like you're drilling 1 inch deep. Assuming you're running an el-cheapo 118 degree buy it anywhere drill(s) - which is fine for the job. For cast iron, typically you want to "spoon" it out but since it's a one hole job it doesn't matter again how you go about it aslong as you got a semi decent tools.

Use of a center drill, spot drill is the correct way to put a "mark" for the drill to start on. I don't like hole punches personally. Most people probably dont even bother, again. it's one of those things that usually wont make much of a difference aslong as you're going in straight as possible.

Use an oil of some kind (ie. WD40) that'll keep the chips from sticking and keep the drill cool, you're good to go. Cutting oil is probably the best, but since you're only drilling 1 hole and it's not that deep, anything should work. I wouldn't use grease.

After you get through, there is probablly still small particles inside there. Vacuum, and/or a magnet will do the trick as you noted. The real smaller dust sized metal particles that might make it's way through probably wont hurt anything.

 

[bling821]

WOOOOOOHOOOOOO! Everything is done and works just fine. I wired up the lights just like in the pictures and they lit up. Imagine that. Once I got power to the pyro and the trans temp, they worked just fine. Didn't have any problems with those. Then the fun.

Its was about 9:00 PM and was about to cut the hose and install the T for the boost and took a phone call. My roomate was makin sure everything was going ok. I got home the night before all pissed off about the lights and he hadn't heard from me for a while. I told him things were ok and hung up. 9:15 Little did I know that one minute later things would not be ok. I decided were to make the cut due to the limited slack in the boost gauge hose and by limited I mean 5 milimeters from being too short. "snip!" Alright let me just put the T in there. SUMBITCH don't fit. Too small for the 1/4" hose. OH crap!! Home Depot Closes at 10:00. Now its 9:16. Called roomate, "Get over here and take me to Home Depot, things are not ok anymore." "What's the deal man?" "I don't have time to waste telling you all about it, you need to be on the way now!"

Got to Home Depot at 9:40, 20 minutes to closing. Went to plumbing and bought a 1/4" female threaded T and three 1/4" male whatchacallits that turn into 1/4" hose thingys. Pit stop at Burger King. Got back, teflon taped and wrenched it up and pleased to say that it works like a champ.

My roomate said that alot of people would have hit that situation and quit saying all is lost, but not you. You just went to the store and invented a way to make it work and it wasn't half *****ed either. After he said that, I told him that I attribute my problem solving success to all of those year building things with Legos. Then confessed that if I still had 'em I would still build stuff with 'em. Best toy ever.

 

[bling821]

Some tips I know;

Assuming you're running an el-cheapo 118 degree buy it anywhere drill(s) - which is fine for the job.

Use of a center drill, spot drill is the correct way to put a "mark" for the drill to start on. I don't like hole punches personally. Most people probably dont even bother, again. it's one of those things that usually wont make much of a difference aslong as you're going in straight as possible.

Use an oil of some kind (ie. WD40) that'll keep the chips from sticking and keep the drill cool, you're good to go. Cutting oil is probably the best, but since you're only drilling 1 hole and it's not that deep, anything should work. I wouldn't use grease.

Oh, buy the way;

I used a Dewalt cordless drill with a fresh battery and a cobalt drill bit. It didn't go through the manifold really fast but it definately didn't have a problem getting through. I used that multi purpose oil on the bit and tap and backed out the tap and cleaned it off every two or three rotations. And as far as marking the hole...I didn't bother, as most probably don't, but that drill bit just jumped right in there and never got squirrely on me. For any who read this before they drill for their pyro, INVEST 5 BUCKS ON SOME SAFETY GLASSES. I did and metal was boucing off of them the whole time.

 

[dpantazis]

look in my sig for link to 7.3 gauge install. i took more pictures.
yeah, the light cover fix with epoxy works well.

6.0 has customer access wires through the firewall too. search for upfitter switch to find out where/how.

the clutch pedal knock out is the way to go. while you have it out, add a couple of more grommets on it and plug with bottle corks. that way later you have more routes to use for other stuff.

dp