Seat removal?

[jvencius]

On the seat removal....


JV,

Get someone to help you take it out, as you said its more awkward than heavy but it would be a shame to tear upholsery or scuff paint trying to wiggle it out the door. I've had my back seat out more than once already and its just easier with an extra set of hands.

That's what I did yesterday. One of the older fellows on the VFD was at the station yesterday and he helped me with getting the back seat out and then back in. Other than that, the job went well and I like my vinyl floor instead of carpeting. All I've got to do now is figure out how to reattach the tray behind the back seat (the vinyl floor covered up the holes for the bolts that hold it down) and screw down the T-case shifter and then I'll be done.

I wonder how much the carpet will go for on Ebay?

 

[95_stroker]

Now that the carpet is removed do you notice more road/exhaust/engine noise in the cab?

 

[jvencius]

Now that the carpet is removed do you notice more road/exhaust/engine noise in the cab?

At least for now, yes I do since the T-case handle/boot/bezel isn't screwed down (I cut the opening in the rubber just a shade too large, so I have to patch it before screwing it down). When the handle is screwed down, I don't think there will be much more, if any, noise since the rubber floor had insulation on the back of it just as the carpet did. Maybe if it is annoyingly loud I'll pull the interior out again (now that I did it once and broke the bolts loose, pulling them out again won't be a big deal) and lay down some Dynamat before putting the vinyl back in place.

 

[95_stroker]

I want to Dynamat my interior as well.............. oh the list is never ending.

 

[jvencius]

I want to Dynamat my interior as well.............. oh the list is never ending.

Thinking back, I should have just Dynamatted the hell out of it when I had the interior stripped, but that would have been the sensible, time-efficient, work-saving thing to do and we just can't have that, can we?

 

[95_stroker]

Dynamat is spendy though. At one time I had figured what I would need to do it and it was 150 to 200 clams I think.

 

[jvencius]

Dynamat is spendy though. At one time I had figured what I would need to do it and it was 150 to 200 clams I think.

Dang--I didn't realize it was that expensive. For that kind of dough, I'll wait and live with a little (if any) extra noise.

 

[Frankenstien]

uhm... ref E-Bay....

I bought carpet for mine on ebay... new it cost me around 55 + shipping... these were take outs from an airport .... I left my Rubber Mat in to add sound insulation... and I too cut that dang hole too big.... so your weren't alone... :-(

 

[jvencius]

... and I too cut that dang hole too big.... so your weren't alone... :-(

The part that tripped me up about cutting the hole was that the screw holes to fasten down the bezel aren't an even distance from the edge of the hole--if they were I could have marked/cut beforehand, but I tried to cut after the rubber was in place and that didnt' work out so well. Since the hole is only ~1/4" bigger than the bezel, I'll put the piece back in place that I cut out and then lay down a really thin layer of ShoeGoo over the top--that should hold it in place pretty well and nobody will see it unless they're looking for a repair like that.

 

[orion_134]

offtopic
Don't use Dynomat, use aluminum backed gutter repair tape. 6"x50' I think was just under $30. Worked well in my Mustang, I double layered it.
Jesse