95_stroker
Jefe
Renegade said:
EBPV question
- Thread starter 95_stroker
- Start date
Renegade
HillBilly
Just thought I'd drop a line & see if you got your leak to quit on the rod?
95_stroker
Jefe
Brian,Renegade said:
I unplugged the electrical connector for the actuator and rehooked the mechanical linkage (that was a treat in itself) and also removed my okie wire that was holding the butterfly open, the next two mornings on cold starts the dang EBPV would close. I'm not sure why it did? So I reinstalled the okie wire to lock the EBPV open and things have been good since.
Now onto the oil leak, a few weeks ago I noticed a spot of oil about the size of a paper plate under the truck but it was intermittent, its never done that before so I assumed it was from the actuator arm. And upon inspection under the hood that did appear to be where it was coming from. I got some engine degreaser and cleaned everything including the valley up real nice and since I have hooked the arm back up I havent had a spot under the truck again. Is this typical of how an actuator arm leak would act? Sometimes there and sometimes not? And for those that gut the EBPV, what do you do with the arm? I assume it leaks only when it tries to extend out as if it were closing the EBPV but since its not hooked does it over extend or what?
I know, a ton of questions but if you have any insight I'd appreciate it.
Mike
Renegade
HillBilly
As usual I'm not much help, on mine, I never got around to gutting the rod out of the pedestal so its still hanging there unhooked with no EBV to clip onto & (Knock on wood) over the last few years its been nothing but clean & has never moved.
Once you unhooked the connector to the EBV valve - it shouldnt cycle unless the oil is forcing it shut - if you get real gumptious theres a couple things you could try, you could pull the rod out like some have talked about & tap it for a pipe plug, remove the pedestal & get the IH pedestal without the EBV provision, or send it off to someone like Byron Eddins & he can lop off all the extra crap & weld it up or do it yourself.
If your going to keep the stock turbo, the last would be the best & prob cheapest option as you can get to the bolts on the pedestal a lot easier on a hacked/welded pedestal since all that EBV crap is gone. Best I recall the IH pedestal with no EBV junk was around $200ish
Once you unhooked the connector to the EBV valve - it shouldnt cycle unless the oil is forcing it shut - if you get real gumptious theres a couple things you could try, you could pull the rod out like some have talked about & tap it for a pipe plug, remove the pedestal & get the IH pedestal without the EBV provision, or send it off to someone like Byron Eddins & he can lop off all the extra crap & weld it up or do it yourself.
If your going to keep the stock turbo, the last would be the best & prob cheapest option as you can get to the bolts on the pedestal a lot easier on a hacked/welded pedestal since all that EBV crap is gone. Best I recall the IH pedestal with no EBV junk was around $200ish
BigRed CC dually
"COB"
"if you get real gumptious theres a couple things you could try"
You would have to get "real danged" gumptious to go to the trouble
My lazy be-tard simply un-plugged the EBPV, un-fastened the rod, and gutted the EBPV. So far so good (hope to heck I didn't just jinks myself) no leaks in about two years worth of driving after the mod.
As power hungry as you are Brian, I'd have been willing to bet you had gutted yours (For those that don't know...Renegade has a FAST truck)
You would have to get "real danged" gumptious to go to the trouble
My lazy be-tard simply un-plugged the EBPV, un-fastened the rod, and gutted the EBPV. So far so good (hope to heck I didn't just jinks myself) no leaks in about two years worth of driving after the mod.
As power hungry as you are Brian, I'd have been willing to bet you had gutted yours (For those that don't know...Renegade has a FAST truck)
Renegade
HillBilly
power hungry - yes but not as bad as I use to be with the current price of fuel getting out of hand & no end in sight.
Too Lazy to install more mods laying in the garage - Bigtime yes!!
The EBV is gutted but not the pedistal guts as I hoped to move on to another pedestal someday with a lil something on top to help take a slight smoking issue away.
Though I did get 6 fresh burns from Tenn in & have been playing with those a lil to see how they do.
Too Lazy to install more mods laying in the garage - Bigtime yes!!
The EBV is gutted but not the pedistal guts as I hoped to move on to another pedestal someday with a lil something on top to help take a slight smoking issue away.
Though I did get 6 fresh burns from Tenn in & have been playing with those a lil to see how they do.
BigRed CC dually
"COB"
Did any of them help to clear the black cloud that follows your truck?? I'm finding the Swamp babies burn smokes a lil' less than the OMG!! burn and the shift patterns/logic where it shifts to high and locks the converter sooner helps the trans temp in town and also has to help the footage....errr mileage
too.
welder79
Welder79
So all I have to do is unplug it?
Do I need to wire it open or will it stay open after it is unplugged?
Do I need to wire it open or will it stay open after it is unplugged?
whatabudro
Launched
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Check out my photos in the WIKI, I guess the pedistal looks the same on the OBS. I will have the article written soon. I gutted the entire system, including the butterlfy on the turbo.
http://superdutydiesel.com/wiki2/tiki-browse_gallery.php?galleryId=10
http://superdutydiesel.com/wiki2/tiki-browse_gallery.php?galleryId=10
BLUKTY
SDD Junior Member
welder79: Yes, just unplug it and the valve will stay open. There is no need to unhook the actuator rod. Before gutting mine, I had it unplugged for many years because it just never did work correctly! Pete