NEED to warm up truck faster!!

powerboatr

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bill
yep its cooling down already
sleet is forcasted,
oops just changed, now its warm sleet ( rain) time to go home, build me a console
 
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jvencius

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CHPMustang said:
Very good idea JV,if I could get Bryan to cut a couple holes in the diamond plate on our bumper I'll need to install two Marinco plugs,one for the oil preheater and the other for the block :sweet



Check the amperage draw for the oil heater--if it's low enough and you connect it to a proper outlet, you could wire the oil and block heaters together and run them off of one plug. If you decide to get REALLY fancy, buy one of THESE and you won't even have to bother with unplugging on startup...:thumbs :thumbs
 

JohnBoyToo

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Has anyone mentioned a remote start ????

easy on me :)
course plugging in would be easier on the engine....

but hey, I'm lazy - remember :)
 

CHPMustang

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JohnBoyToo said:
Has anyone mentioned a remote start ????

easy on me :)
course plugging in would be easier on the engine....

but hey, I'm lazy - remember :)
How could we forget:D

The remote start is cool tho:sweet
 

powerboatr

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my remote start has a had time starting the truck if its cold
it doesnt turn it over long enough
soem days it fires right up, other days it times out and retries a few times before it catches.
its got to be 6.0 thing the 7.3 never did it
so i learn to listen for it to start.
but does drive so nice
 

JohnBoyToo

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robert,
none of mine has never "not started" ever....
he 02 7.3, nor the 03 6.0, nor the 05 6.0....

something must be amiss with either the timer or your glow plug relay - dunno....

The 05 though DOES have Synthetic in it from the last oil change - so maybe that helps ?!?!? anudder dunno :)

I can say this though I may have to plug it in if it gets down to 17 again like it did last night :)

It did start without issue and ran fine...
but the clattering noise from my wife until SHE warmed up was too much to bear :):):)
 
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Hoss 350

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Warm-ups can be accelerated by several means. I have my EBPV wired to a switch (more on that later, for those that asked), and I have a homemade high0idle control, using a potentiometer dial to control the idle speed, and a switch to turn the idle control on or off. What I do, is run the idle up to 1400 or so, flip on the EBPV, and come back in about 5 minutes, and by the time I get in and drive down the road, it is starting to blow hot air. Neighbors probably hate it, because it sounds like a 747 taking off in my yard every morning, but what can a guy do? If I use the block heater, warm ups come even faster. This morning, it was -2 degrees in my backyard when I fired her up. She smoked like a wet fire, but started just fine. Turned the idle up, shut the EBPV and came back 7 minutes later, she was all defrosted and there was heat coming from them thar vents. Mind you, not FULL heat yet, but it was starting to get warmer.

BBB, you could get an aftermarket exhaust brake and accomplish the same thing as i just talked about. That is always an option.

Additionally, a cold front may make all the difference in the world. Or, you could just jam a potato with a small hole in it in your exhaust pipe every morning. :D

To wire your EBPV to function solely when you tell it to, you must do the following....
1.) Buy a resistor of the amount that the EBPV provides under normal operation. I used to know what this was, but have forgotten. It is in the archives over at TDS, I'll check into it if I get a chance today. Disconnect the plug off of the EBPV, and cut it off the wires. Soldier that resistor between the two wires, and secure somewhere safe with ties. Now, run a hot 12V from some hot 12V source (your choice, there are plenty of options) to a switch in the cab of your pickup. From there, run the switched wire to the EBPV plug wire (you left enough wire on the plug to soldier this wire to it, right? Then, run the ground wire off the EBPV and splice it into the old ground wire (black) that came off the EBPV. I do not *think* you need to use a rectifier diode because it is a ground, so it shouldn't backfeed, but who knows... Now, your EBPV will only function when you tell it to.

To wire your EBPV so that it functions normally (off the PCM) but so that you can also manually turn it on with a switch (this is how I have mine setup)...

1.) Get two rectifier diodes (electrical check valves, to prevent back feeding) and soldier the goes-outta ends of them together. Cut the power wire to your EBPV (Grey if memeory serves) and perform the following:

- The wire coming OUT of the EBPV gets soldiered to the goes-outta ends of the diodes (both of them, you already soldiered them together, remember?). The part of the same wire coming from the PCM gets soldiered to one of the goes-inta ends of ONE of the diodes (NOT BOTH) so that the PCM can communicate with the EBPV still. The wire from the switch you put in the cab (I forgot to mention that part) which is tied to a 12V hot, then gets soldiered to the goes-inta end of the OTHER diode. What this does is allow the 12v hot fromt eh switch to talk to the EBPV manually, without backfeeding to the PCM, which I am sure would produce a DTC. Also, the other diode keeps the signal from the PCM from backfeeding to your switch in the cab. You cannot disable the PCM-controlled EBPV actuation in this mode, however, without taking additional steps. You have to interrupt the ground wire with a normally on switch in teh cab, which you would shut off to kill the EBPV. However, this will most likely cause a DTC and your SES light will come on. I am trying to figure out how to wire a resistor into the system, an "alternate path" of sorts, so that when you hit the disable switch, it reroutes current away from the EBPV and through the resistor of the same value as the EBPV, tricking the PCM into thinking it is there without it actually functioning. I would need a relay switch that runs one route when no 12V signal is present, and another route when a 12V signal is present. I am trying to find such a switch, and I will do this to my truck and let you all know how it works....

Wow, what a mouthful.... Sorry....
 

powerboatr

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john boy too
i took it in to have the starter grind uped in time, and i lowered the glow plug wait time, these heat up fast, or at least the light goes off quick and it was waiting to long, so the fuel pump would shut down.
I really think the high pressure system is leaking down or the icp( i think teh 6.0 has one) if she sits for more than 24 hours she is a bear to get started.real long starter engage time of over 8 seconds.
she is going to the doc tomorrow to check the tranny
will have em look at the engine to
 

whatabudro

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If I'm a genuis, call SOS, cause this thing is going down, and fast too.
 

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