This ain't working out like I'd hoped------

[Tail_Gunner]

I got the HTS-2000 aluminum repair stick. I've been trying to accomplish the repair to the HPOP reservoir and things are not progressing like I'd hoped.

I'm running into two issues.

First is torch heat. I'm using the torch with mapp gas that they suggested for light repairs. I'm having trouble getting the work material hot enough so the repair rod will melt on contact with it i.e tinning the material. About the only way I can get the repair rod to melt & flow is with near direct flame contact.

The other issue is working with a verticle surface. The molten material won't stay put. It wants to run/drip down to the bottom of the reservoir. About the only way I can see this working is to tip the truck up on its side.

At this point I'm rather frustrated.


I'm starting to reconsider the JB Weld ooption with a twist. I was thinking about a JB weld sandwich. Put a liberal amount JB Weld on the crack, and then put a thin piece of aluminum sheet formed to the contour of the reservoir. Clamp it all in place and let it set up.

Thoughts, ideas???

 

[JRJ04]

i was gonna suggest that!

This might be stupid becuase I'm not as familiar with welding and such...but would high temp rtv sealant be any good? Only concern I see there is the pressure being too high for it to hold. Or maybe use the rtv and the aluminum strip?

 

[Tail_Gunner]

i was gonna suggest that!

This might be stupid becuase I'm not as familiar with welding and such...but would high temp rtv sealant be any good? Only concern I see there is the pressure being too high for it to hold. Or maybe use the rtv and the aluminum strip?

I was thinking earlier about the gray International RTV. It is without a doubt the nastiest RTV I've ever seen. It's more like glue than sealant. It typically takes a hammer and chissel or a pry bar to get pieces apart that have been sealed with the stuff.

 

[BIG JOE]

I was thinking earlier about the gray International RTV. It is without a doubt the nastiest RTV I've ever seen. It's more like glue than sealant. It typically takes a hammer and chissel or a pry bar to get pieces apart that have been sealed with the stuff.

If you end up using an RTV or JB weld ? You might think about Layering it TG.

I repaired a 3" crack on the prop hub, on the Lower End Unit of my Boat motor.. Groved the crack, filled it, let it cure, roughed the area around the filled area, then overlayed it.

That was 6 years ago.. No Leaks.

Joe

 

[Tail_Gunner]

If you end up using an RTV or JB weld ? You might think about Layering it TG.

I repaired a 3" crack on the prop hub, on the Lower End Unit of my Boat motor.. Groved the crack, filled it, let it cure, roughed the area around the filled area, then overlayed it.

That was 6 years ago.. No Leaks.

Joe

I like it!!! Thanks.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Well, I have officially abondoned the HTS-2000 approach to repairing the HPOP reservoir. The main, overriding issue was the inability/ difficulty in using it with your work in a verticle position. I have welded steel before with my work in a verticle position and I didn't think this HTS-2000 stuff would prove to be that much different. I played around with the HTS-2000 stuff a bit using an old water pump yesterday. Today I took a hammer and a chissel to it, and it would have taken more effort than I wanted to expend to get the HTS-2000 stuff off the aluminum pump. It appears to be pretty good stuff, as long as you can work it on a horzontal surface. To do that on the HPOP reservoir, I would have had to roll the truck on its side. Not an option.

I just applied the first layer of JB Weld to the notched out crack on the HPOP reservoir. I'll let it set up for 24 hours and then put another layer with a small flat aluminum piece for a bit of structural reinforcement. And we'll keep our fingers crossed from there.

 

[DaveBen]

Good Luck, TG.

Dave

 

[JLDickmon]

You know, I never thought about the "liquidity" of those aluma-weld sticks.. I mean, you can usually play with the heat when you're slobbering or brazing and build up the bead, I figured the HTS would be close..

looks like not, huh?

 

[Tbar]

Years ago I broke the radiator casting on my old Farmall tractor.

A buddy of mine at work that had experience working with cast iron fixed it for me.

He V'd out the crack, heated the casting with an acetylene torch and brazed up the break.

He then used JB Weld to cover the brazing and seal up any porosity. The repair has never leaked.


Tbar

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Well, I have officially abondoned the HTS-2000 approach to repairing the HPOP reservoir. The main, overriding issue was the inability/ difficulty in using it with your work in a verticle position. I have welded steel before with my work in a verticle position and I didn't think this HTS-2000 stuff would prove to be that much different. I played around with the HTS-2000 stuff a bit using an old water pump yesterday. Today I took a hammer and a chissel to it, and it would have taken more effort than I wanted to expend to get the HTS-2000 stuff off the aluminum pump. It appears to be pretty good stuff, as long as you can work it on a horzontal surface. To do that on the HPOP reservoir, I would have had to roll the truck on its side. Not an option.

I just applied the first layer of JB Weld to the notched out crack on the HPOP reservoir. I'll let it set up for 24 hours and then put another layer with a small flat aluminum piece for a bit of structural reinforcement. And we'll keep our fingers crossed from there.

OK, layer #2 of JB Weld is on, as well as a small piece of aluminum to reinforce the end where the crack is. Tomorrow I'll add some more LB Weld to contour the layered build up around the added piece and to flare out the edges of the JB Weld somewhat and give it more of a finished appearance. I'll let that all set up for another 24.

I'm taking a slow & sure approach to this with the general idea that a few thinner layers will setup better with fewer air bubbles than a single thick layer will.

I'm guessing on Sunday I'll put it all back together and see what happens.