First time in the cold

[Kleetus]

Not true. These trucks will start well beyond the point where the oil will not flow out of the pan. They will not run once the HPOP runs out of oil but by then the damage is done.

I believe you, sorta...

How can the one oil pump work and not the other? If it's a cold soak, then all the oil is the same temperature. If it's not, then the oil pan is what's cold, and a block heater will do little to help that.

Not trying to be smart, I just don't see how it's possible.

 

[Kleetus]

not necessarily...remember theres .95 quarts in the hpop reservoir.

and just cause the oil is THICK doesnt mean that the oil pressure is lower.

synth. oil wont necessarily resolve this problem either....if the weight is
too heavy (in the winter) it sure wont get any thinner in the cold.

case in point...when you look at the "recommended" oil weight they
DO NOT make a differentiation between synth. & dino...

oil pan heater - Google Search

Wait a sec... if when I start my tractor with mechanical gauges, when it's cold it takes a moment or so to really start building oil pressure. I concur that thickness of the oil doesn't change the pressure number, but the flow numbers. So more of what's going on is the pump is most likely cavitating, because the cold oil can't get into the pump. - So, my point above again is if the hpop can move the oil to get the injectors firing, how come the lpop can't? I agree you're not going to have optimal lubrication at the rocker arms for a minute or so, but you shouldn't have it to the floor either.

True again that syn oil isn't the end all, but for all intents and purposes, it's as good as it's going to get for us in 2008 with our knowledge of oils. Syn oil will maintain a much more stable viscosity than dyno oil. Which in this case really what we're shooting for, something that behaves more like the oil we know and love at regular room temperature.

Probably the reason most manufacturers don't mention syn, is cost, and then the question of why doesn't it come factory filled that way, which again is cost. And besides that, what real incentive do they have to make the unit last 300k, if they can sell you another one at 175k? Not to be cynical, but planned obsolescence is real.

Just for grins, I'm going to get some of my Mobil 1, 5w-40, rotella syn 5w-40 and a couple of dino oils, 5, 10, and 15w and park them outside the next good freeze and run some comparisons... while filming. I never tried it before and I'm curious to see the results.

 

[AK HDM]

If the block heater is plugged in, the block will be warm. The HPOP & the oil in it's reservoir will be warm also as it is in the valley between the heads above the camshaft. The oil in the oilpan would be cold & may or may not flow to the lube oil pump upon startup, but the HPOP would have warm oil for a little bit.
Hope this helps.
Mike

 

[bushpilot]

If the block heater is plugged in, the block will be warm. The HPOP & the oil in it's reservoir will be warm also as it is in the valley between the heads above the camshaft. The oil in the oilpan would be cold & may or may not flow to the lube oil pump upon startup, but the HPOP would have warm oil for a little bit.
Hope this helps.
Mike

quantify "WARM"...in alaska or virginia or texas ????

the block heater heats the water in the coolant passage.....
in turn that warm'ed coolant heats the block and EVENTUALLY
the warm block will transfer some heat to the oil too.

the block heater doesnt heat the oil in the pan or the coolant
in the radiator or the heater core...and technically it doesnt heat
the oil in the block or hpop reservoir

if youre in EXTREME COLD then buy yourself an oil pan heating
pad and use it WITH the block heater

 

[AK HDM]

Warm as in whatever the temp of the coolant in the engine is, depending on ambient temp. The warm or hot coolant in the engine is going to warm the oil in the oil cooler. the oil in the HPOP reservoir is down in the block, so it's going to get some warmth from the coolantwarming the block
Bushpilot, I get the impression you don't think I know what I'm talking about. I've been a Heavy Duty Mechanic for over 35 years.
For your imformation I have engine oil pan & trans pan heaters on my vehicles.

 

[Crumm]

Bushpilot, I get the impression you don't think I know what I'm talking about.

I always thought that too until a few days ago. See my signature above

 

[bushpilot]

Bushpilot, I get the impression you don't think I know what I'm talking about.

not at all...i just thought youre post could benefit w/ some additional
clarification...some here have thought that plugging in the block
heater also activated the glow plugs....

and theyve been told this by their mechanics !

im pretty certain that SOME think the block heater heats the coolant
and oil to operating temp or near operating temp.

a lot has more to do w/ where you are and what the temp. is...and
certainly the block heater doesnt magically warm EVERYTHING or
work "quickly"...

a lot of the warmth comes from conduction...at best.

my post wasnt directed at you per se' i was just adding TO
your explanation...no differently than you were adding to & clarifying
my post.

 

[ckamp52]

ok i'm trying to find out what i need to do to protect my truck since i'm not a diesel mech and not usually around single digits temps so i dont know how my truck is reactingadn want to protect my investment i wish somebody would tell me what i need to do instead of bickering with each other sory if i seem short but i'm 25 and worked my a** off to get this truck and still do and i use it for my job so while a lot of people just have these trucks cuz they can and have the money when they never haul/tow nething or go off a paved rd (4x4) i do and i would liek something that will tell me definately if im in danger of screwing something up etc sry for the rude/pissy spell

 

[atk]

ok i'm trying to find out what i need to do to protect my truck since i'm not a diesel mech and not usually around single digits temps so i dont know how my truck is reactingadn want to protect my investment i wish somebody would tell me what i need to do instead of bickering with each other sory if i seem short but i'm 25 and worked my a** off to get this truck and still do and i use it for my job so while a lot of people just have these trucks cuz they can and have the money when they never haul/tow nething or go off a paved rd (4x4) i do and i would liek something that will tell me definately if im in danger of screwing something up etc sry for the rude/pissy spell

don`t blame you for wanting to protect your investment...i usually don`t plug in my truck till the outside temps get down to about -15C TO -18C(O`F) if it starts getting colder then that, then you will need to plug the truck in at night or atleast 3 to 4 hours before you have to leave for work....
one place i would start is by switching to a good synthetic oil(5w40)...mobil 1 or rotella t would be good...with going with a sythetic oil it will flow better when it is cold out....hope this helps....


it gets cold here too....

 

[f100cleveland]

I think you'll be fine with the temp down to 0 or so even if you don't plug your truck in. Use some fuel anti-gel or if you don't trust those go for #1 diesel. Use a lighter weight engine oil maybe synthetic if you want. My 01 would start at -10 with 15w 40 in it and #2 diesel with Howes anti-gel fuel additive. Its still going with over 200k on the ticker. Make shure your batterys are up to it too.