Question Well I found that oil leak...

JRJ04

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so given my history...which (well you know how that goes) should i attempt to tackle this myself or should i stay away and let someone do it?

also does the smoke thing make sense now?
 

RSG

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JR
I did this and some other items (below) over Christmas. It took me at least 2x longer the JLDickmon - (a long long Sunday) - but he knows what he's doing and I'm just fartin' around. It is a booger because you are reaching and stretching but if you exercise the "patience grasshopper" virtues, and have the time to spend on it, it saves you bucks to do the following stuff:
1. consider deleting the EBPV and replacing the pedestal with a non EBPV shaft. You won't regret it except maybe in cold weather or if you want to use it as a "brake". You need to get the torque settings for the pedestal when you put it back on, we have them on a thread from my install.
2. put in the wicked wheel, what the heck -- it is only $90 or so and complete install directions are available on some of the sponsor sites like Diesel Site.
3. for sure replace all the boots after cleaning the tubes good
4. consider replacing the waste gate actuator with the TurboMaster, while you got it all out.

You can see some of the pix in my gallery. By doing the labor yourself you will be able to buy the boots, the WW, the EBPV-less pedestal, the waste gate actuator (and the o-rings too!) for less than the labor charge from the dealer.

One other thought, unless you are sure that this is the problem, clean the oil off real well and put some of the tracer dye into your oil then use a black light to look for the leak. Your dealer can do it for you or you can buy the stuff and do it yourself.

Good luck!
 

JRJ04

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Hey thanks for the reply....

I was planning on doing the WW while it was off and replacing the boots as well. I think I'll leave the pedistal...I like my EBPV as a brake (Thanks DP Tuner!). why the turbo master wastegate? more boost? able to build and hold it better?

Where can you buy the oil dye?
 
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RSG

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The dealer has the dye...about $10 IIRC.
You can read about waste gate actuators etc here:
 

JRJ04

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Truck is at the dealership and I've got questions

Hey guys,

So I took the truck in because I've got the turbo pedistal o-rings and/or ebpv valve actuator inside the pedistal leaking and I just dont want to mess with that myself. Since the turbo has to come off :sly, I figured it would be a great time to install a wicked wheel and replace the boots on the intake spyder!:D

I also wanted them to check out the issue i was having with it belching blueish/white smoke when I revved it with the chip on. JL, you had said its totally normal, but it just seemed to me that it wasnt right (injector o-ring or something like that). They did a cylinder contribution test and all checked out fine with the chip on and off. They said that with the chip on, when they revvvved it, the computer is maxing out the MAP sensor and as a result of that, it just dumps more fuel in to compensate for it. They said that this is normal and nothing to worry about.

So my question is, why did it do this after I had all my injector issues? Before I could revvv it and it would not hicup and would let out black smoke. Could this be a map sensor that is bad? I dont have a map fooler becuase Jody put a code in there to keep it from defueling. Do I need one anyways?

Sorry for the long post....your thoughts???
 

JLDickmon

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if Jody put one in there, you don't need redundancy.

Dude...

just drive it.

paranoia will destroy ya'...
 

JLDickmon

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JR
I did this and some other items (below) over Christmas. It took me at least 2x longer the JLDickmon - (a long long Sunday) - but he knows what he's doing and I'm just fartin' around.

I just fart around with mine as well..

think ya gotta realize, there's only so many ways to build an engine..

plus, when I go into something like this, I look at everything even remotely connected with the job and expect to replace that, too.
 
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JRJ04

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theyre thinkin the icp sensor might have somethin to do with it cause that is leakin a bit of oil too. and iirc, jody put a code in there to block icp codes as well. so with taht leaking as well, i think that might be a contributor to the issue.

the icp is easy enough to replace myself. they said the connector would be replaced as well, but i know i can buy it all myself. any ideas where i can purchase it for cheaper? they quoted me around 225 (140 is for the sensor and 90ish for the connector).
 

RSG

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I just fart around with mine as well..

think ya gotta realize, there's only so many ways to build an engine..

plus, when I go into something like this, I look at everything even remotely connected with the job and expect to replace that, too.

Yeah, but you are efficient and know what you're doing and what to look for :sweet...:D
I get stuck up under the damn firewall and gotta call in reinforcements for extraction. :rolleyes:
 

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